Catching the first bus each morning in the cold and dark is wearing, so I treat myself to a later start. Unfortunately, this means the incoming tide now blocks the An Sailean marshes, forcing me back to the road, which […]
Day 293: Benderloch to Barcaldine Read More »
“Bridge of Clachan please.” “Not jumping off it are you?” “It’s a bit cold for that!” Do I look desperate? Mind you, who in their right mind boards the first bus at 7 am in the rain? I’m the only
Day 292: Bridge of Clachan to Oban Read More »
It’s pitch black and I’m crossing the Bridge over the Atlantic onto Seil Island, the only passenger on the first bus to Ellenabeich village and the ferry to Easdale Island. The driver will pick me up anywhere along his route
Day 291: Easdale & Seil Islands Read More »
Luing is the largest of the Slate Islands — “the islands that roofed the world” — yet it is only six miles long and 1.5 miles wide. In the 1800s, over 600 people lived on the island, working in 15
Day 290: Isle of Luing Read More »
Cal leaves while I’m barely stirring. I rashly planned a second mountain hike today, but the gloomy weather and my aching legs suggest a more gentle return to the coast. Waiting for the bus to Benderloch, I chat with the
Day 289: Benderloch to Oban Read More »
A new year begins. There was no need for resolutions — my challenges multiply happily on their own. The further north I push, the more difficult the logistics, especially without a tent or a car. Oban offers a perfect base,
Day 288: Ben Cruachan Read More »
The highlight of a short summer family holiday in Crete is a 16km hike down the Samaria Gorge from the mountain plateau at 1,200m to Agia Roumeli, a small fishing village on the Mediterranean Sea. Despite the scorching weather and
Skipping the section from Berriedale to Whaligoe due to the snow puts John o’Groats within my reach. Sunny weather is forecast, so what better way to finish the hiking year? My pronunciation of Keiss has improved from yesterday as the
Day 287: Keiss to John o’Groats Read More »
More snow is forecast, so I’ll take the bus north to the village of Keiss and walk back to town. Ice cracks under my boots as I cross the River Wick to the bus stop. The bus driver corrects my
Day 286: Wick to Keiss Read More »
A 7 am knock at my door. In the absence of a dining room, the owner wheels in a cooked breakfast trolley. Is he wearing pyjamas? “I don’t get this at home.” My book for this trip is Between the
Day 285: Whaligoe to Wick Read More »