Lofoten: Day 6

My final day on Lofoten and the first day of glorious sunshine. A Norwegian in the breakfast room drove five hours last night to hike in the mountains, telling me it’s the first day of guaranteed sunshine since the start […]

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Lofoten: Day 5

The small Reine to Vindstad ferry only runs in the afternoon on a Sunday, allowing me the luxury of a long lie-in. Chatting to Jack over breakfast, I learn he’s from Margate, just down the road from me — strange

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Lofoten: Day 4

The Reinebringen Trail is on my 100 Hikes of a Lifetime challenge. It’s neither particularly high nor the most interesting walk on the island, but the view from the peak is said to be stunning. The forecast is for rain

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Lofoten: Day 3

I’m woken in the dark by tent walls shaking in the wind and quickly close the flaps against the rain blowing down the mountain pass. It’s 3 am. The wind gusts, up to 45 mph, bend the broken pole despite

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Lofoten: Day 2

The tail of the storm passed in the night. Opening the tent flap to a cheerful blue sky, what a magical transformation. Wearing only shorts and a warm jacket, I stroll down to the pristine beach, barefoot on the cool

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Lofoten: Day 1

Lofoten is an archipelago in Norway, sitting just above the Arctic Circle. The Long Crossing traverses the islands, a loose grouping of trails, rough paths and roads. Given my recent shin splints, I’m only hiking a dramatic section across Moskenesøya

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