I wake to a light dusting of snow, painting the landscape into a winter wonderland and, less pleasing, frozen water and milk. I’ll need that flask of hot coffee today. What a beautiful start to the day, crunching across snow […]
Day 349: Glen Dessarry to Inverie Read More »
The Cape Wrath Trail is Britain’s most challenging long-distance trail. I’m excited to hike a small section in winter, covering 27 miles and 5,500 feet of ascent over two days from Glenfinnan to Inverie. On my last trip, I took
Day 348: Glenfinnan to Glen Dessarry Read More »
Like a mischievous child opening their Christmas presents early, I can’t wait for the long hike into Knoydart next month, taking advantage of clear weather to book the ferry to Inverie, home to half the peninsula’s population of 111 residents.
People look at my progress map and find it hard to believe that, at 5,500 miles, I’m only just over halfway round my coastal walk. There are some big islands to circumnavigate. One of those is Skye, with over 400
Day 346: Armadale to Point of Sleat Read More »
Keppoch looks innocuous. There are no steep hillsides to climb, no crags to avoid, no rivers to ford and yet there are reports of paths that disappear into the woods, barbed wire fences and hostile farmers. I’m wary. The road
Day 345: Arisaig to Mallaig Read More »
Neil Ansell explored North Morar in The Last Wilderness, wandering where his curiosity took him. I want to do something similar. A trail runs north from Bracorina on the shore of Loch Morar across the hills to Stoul on Loch
Day 344: North Morar Read More »
My original plan was to leave the main road from Lochailort railway station at the first opportunity and find my way up into the hills of the remote Ardnish Peninsula. The barman I met yesterday shot that down, as it
Day 343: Lochailort to Beasdale Read More »
This is not the season to spend hours waiting on a cold, dark station platform for a train back to Mallaig. The Crofter’s Rest in Arisaig, reopening yesterday after its winter break, should provide a warmer option. The plan is
Day 342: Beasdale to Arisaig Read More »
A new year and the train rattles north through unfamiliar landscapes: wet, grey, rivers in spate, snow on the mountain tops, and stags watching from hillcrests. A handful of passengers burrow under layers and woollen hats in the cold carriages.
Day 341: Mallaig to Mallaigmore Read More »
It’s a beautiful morning for my last day of hiking in 2025, following the long road to the sea across Kentra Moss, a vast area of blanket bog ringed by snow-capped hills. I make a few friends along the way.
Day 340: Ardtoe Peninsula Read More »