Day 9 (5 Aug): Le Peuty to Tre-Le-Champ (9 miles, 3,400 feet ascent, 3,400 feet descent)
The yurt, despite my knots, survived the overnight winds. However, the prospect of another night of communal showers, plus switching to shared dorms, prompts another parting of the ways as Jude and Hayley, who has still not recovered from her stomach bug, head down into Chamonix, leaving Rhys and me to continue on the trail.
It’s a steady two-hour climb to Refuge du Col de Balme, where we are rewarded with stunning views down the Chamonix Valley as we cross our last border back into France.
A dog runs frantically across the grassy hillside from hiker to hiker, hoping to find its owner, before a chain of small children appear over the rise like a scene from The Sound of Music, calling for the animal. After a manic few minutes, they are safely reunited.
The gentle slopes give way to rocks and a short scramble up to the L’Aiguillette des Posettes ridge, surrounded by majestic ragged peaks. What a sight. These are the days I live for.
For a moment, I cause panic in the ranks, thinking we must descend and climb another monster path straight ahead, but once I study the map properly, I see we only have a long descent to our left.
On the final approach to Tre-Le-Champ, we spot a refuge with a beer garden, which proves too hard to resist. We even have a handsome guard dog to look after our backpacks.
Our accommodation lies across the river and railway track, a shared room at the Gîte Le Moulin. Early signs are not encouraging, with signs plastered all over the entrance passageway, including:
This is not a hotel. If it were, you would be paying hotel prices!
Hayley had warned that reviews mentioned a grumpy owner but fantastic food.
I find the owner preparing food in the kitchen, and he asks where the other two members of our party are. Hopeful of getting a room to ourselves, I lie and say they are following. He shows us to an empty 6-bed dorm. Half an hour later I nip back downstairs to tell him that Hayley and Jude have changed plans and are now heading to a different destination. He’s not happy. Well, we’ve paid for four people, so does it really matter?
We’ve made good time with four hours until dinner, so we walk down into the nearby village of Argentiere, Rhys choosing to change into flip-flops, where we while away a pleasant afternoon drinking beer in the main street and playing cards.
Dinner is in 15 minutes, so we finish our drinks, having no wish to risk Mr Grumpy’s wrath. Rather than return via the road, I foolishly suggest a wooded path on the other side of the river, having noticed a footbridge close to the gîte. This sounds good in theory, but the path winds away from the river, and the clock is ticking. Our pace quickens, becoming more of a jog, Rhys flapping along in his flip-flops. Sweating, we are the last to arrive in the cosy dining room, just as the first course is served, earning a raised eyebrow from the proprietor.
The reviews are spot on. Crusty bread, homemade soup and a simple main course of pasta cooked with a mix of herbs and spices. It’s the most delicious meal I’ve had on the trail. Keen to recover some lost ground, we are effusive in our thanks to the owner for the fine dinner, ever the diplomats. I’ll sleep well tonight.
Day 10 (6 Aug): Tre-Le-Champ to Les Praz (8 miles, 1,700 feet ascent, 2,600 feet descent)
We meet Jude and Hayley at the train station near our overnight accommodation and discuss another change of plans, swapping Refuge de la Flégère for an Airbnb in Le Praz, at the bottom of the cable car from the refuge.
As per our morning routine, we begin the long climb up the mountainside. Passing the halfway point, Jude looks up at the rocks ahead and says this is as far as she can go. The path is exposed in places, rocky underfoot and fairly busy, so the thought of passing people is a non-starter, not helped by the knowledge of metal ladders to climb further up. After a team pow-wow, I will descend with her and take a lower woodland path, while Hayley and Rhys continue upwards.
Our alternative route is lovely, leaving the main trail for a less-used path meandering down through the trees and round huge rocks. It includes a little scrambling, but it’s not exposed, which makes all the difference for Jude.
Our new path cuts back to Argentière, so after three hours hiking, we are effectively back where we started. This calls for a cafe and ice-cold Cokes before setting off once more. It will be a long walk today.
The path shadows the railway line and river, winding through the trees with regular benches to sit and admire the scenery. It’s a very pleasant afternoon, which ends in an attractive park on the edge of Le Praz, busy with families. Our Airbnb faces a tiny church.
Hayley and Rhys arrived before us, sped down by a cable car, and their photographs of Lac Blanc make me want to hike up there tomorrow before our final trail section into Chamonix, but it would add another three hours to the day.
We retire for a pleasant dinner on the terrace at La Crémerie Du Moulin and swap stories from our day. The finish line draws near.
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