Canadian Rockies: Week 1

Our two-week hiking road trip from Calgary up to Jasper is finally underway, delayed three years due to Covid. Unfortunately, we are down to five as Cal could not get time off work and Nathan has University exam resits. A sign of things to come as the children grow older and juggle other commitments.

After a very long travel day, we crash out in the pretty town of Canmore, home for the first three nights.

Sunday

The original plan was to hike up a local mountain, but everyone is weary from travelling, so it’s a popular decision to switch the first two days and explore Grassi Lakes.

On route, we call into a hiking store to buy the mandatory bear spray. Is this really necessary on such busy trails? The sales guy quickly puts me straight as bears are regularly sighted in the area. A burst of pepper spray irritates a bear’s eyes, causing it to retreat. At least that’s the theory. If I can remember to grab it from the outside pocket of my rucksack, remove the safety cover, point it at the charging bear and avoid spraying into the wind!

We receive safety instructions, and I sign a waiver form, introduced after a previous buyer returned in a rage, accusing the shop of mis-selling the spray. He’d sprayed his family thinking it was bear repellant. Rhys and I fall about laughing.

Suitably armed, we arrive at the lakes, which are gorgeous. The turquoise water is so clear that you can see the fine detail of every log resting far below the surface. No wonder they’re so popular.

After a cold beer back in town, we make the most of a beautiful day and follow a path along the Bow River to a bridge made famous, at least to the geeks among us, by The Last of Us, a recent post-apocalyptic TV series.

The landscape is wonderful — everything I’d hoped for and more.

Monday

Suitably refreshed, we climb 2,624 feet up Ha Ling Peak, along a 5-mile switchback forest trail, before emerging from the trees and scrambling up to the rocky peak at 7,897 feet for majestic views. My breathing is rapid and very shallow which is unusual. This is probably the highest I’ve climbed so something to monitor over the next couple of weeks as heights vary.

The valleys are filled with drifting wildfire smoke, giving a watercolour effect to the photos.

The weather forecast is for storms later in the day, which is one reason we started the hike early. The other is the popularity of the trails on our itinerary, with limited parking space at the trailheads. Sure enough, rain, thunder and lightning hit as we reach the lower slopes and the shelter of the trees. Incredibly, there are still people heading up to the exposed peak, including a woman with three young children.

Tuesday

We are moving north to Golden for the next four nights, stopping off for the very popular Johnston Canyon Hike in Banff National Park. To avoid the coach parties, we pack and leave by 7 am. How long will the early starts last before a mutiny breaks out?

The waterfalls in the canyon are wonderful, although we were right to visit early as a queue to access the main viewing platform is already forming.

Despite the impressive falls, my favourite spot is further up the valley at the Ink Pots, a series of blue-green pools fed by underwater springs.

Our chalet at Golden is also home to barn swallows, nesting in the porch. The parents fly back and forth, feeding their young. I wander down to the bridge over the Kicking Horse River, where a few motor homes are parked on the shore, their owners sitting outside, enjoying the fine sunset.

Wednesday

I’d hoped to complete a hike near Lake Louise, from National Geographic’s 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, but this is one of the most popular spots in the national parks, and the car park is already full when we arrive at 8 am, so we switch to the more strenuous Iceline Trail beginning at Takakkaw Falls, at 1,225 feet the second tallest waterfall in Canada. Hayley and Rhys enjoy an early morning shower in the drifting spray.

The hike is longer than planned as we extend it to a challenging 17-mile circular walk, including a 2,380 feet climb up to the glaciers and then a gorgeous descent through wildflower meadows, following rivers back to the car park.

Thursday

A break from hiking, but certainly not a rest day, as we enjoy white water rafting down the Kicking Horse River, including a dip in the icy meltwater, jumping out of the raft and floating down the river, until safely hauled back in by another member of the family. Max is in his element, drenched at the front by the breaking waves.

Friday

We return to Lake Louise and secure a car park space at 6:30 am. There’s a large hotel by the lake, which is crowded with early-morning photographers and groups taking selfies.

There are two hiking trails from the lake. The easiest is to the Lake Agnes Teahouse, featured in 100 Hikes of a Lifetime, and the destination of most hikers congregating round the lake. We are taking the longer trail to the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. As this is mentioned in the book as an alternative route, I’m counting this as ticking off one of my 100 hikes.

The end of the walk lies beyond the teahouse, which is not open yet. There’s an occasional crack as part of a glacier breaks away and plunges down the cliff face.

Hayley and Rhys bound down the mountain slope, with Jude and I descending carefully behind.

The Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse was built in 1927 by the Canadian Pacific Railway for guests staying at the Chateau Lake Louise. Supplies are either flown by helicopter at the start of the season or carried in by the staff on their backs. A lovely break for tea and delicious cinnamon cake.

A brave chipmunk works his way down a large boulder to see if I have any food.

What a beautiful week of gorgeous weather and stunning scenery. We move on to Jasper tomorrow.