Day 213: Whitley Bay to Newbiggin-by-the-Sea

Low tide reveals the causeway to the charming St Mary’s Lighthouse (1898).

The expanse of dunes at Seaton Sluice, where I ran up and down as a child, is watched over by two replica naval guns at Blyth Battery. A gardener on the site explains the impact of recent storms, sweeping sand along the beach into large sculpted drifts and carving deep holes at the base of sea defences. Once I’ve explained my hiking journey, he generously offers food and drink from the nearby cafe that his wife runs, although I decline.

Blyth is gloomy under heavy clouds, although a pretty park has vibrant splashes.

Huge North Sea oil rigs are decommissioned on the north bank of the River Blyth.

Passing under the A189, there’s a pretty weir crossing over the River Wansbeck.

Dusk approaches and the temperature falls — not the time to be stationary and fishing.

I arrive at Newbiggin-by-the-Sea just as the light fades. Couple by Sean Henry dominates the bay — a source of controversy when first installed. I like it and stand for some time taking photos.

Zooming in, trying to keep my hands steady, I get a shove in the back. A large dog has mistaken me for his owner, jumping up. The chap apologies.

“It never gets old does it?”

“I could look at the sculpture for ages.”

“Not that thing. I meant the sea.”

“Oh. Yes, that too.”

Explaining what I’m doing, it transpires he dreams of sailing round Britain and has just bought a new boat. I tell him to do it. I could do with a lift from time to time.

My sister, Judith, picks me up and takes me home for a delicious meal with Viv and Milly — another lovely evening.

Next day

I have a couple of hours before my train home and the gorgeous early morning is too good to waste, so I whizz round Newcastle for some photos.

The Quayside is unrecognisable from when I was a kid. I have a memory of it smelling of fish on a Sunday morning.

The sleek Millenium Bridge (2001) frames the classic Tyne Bridge (1928).

The Ouseburn Valley is full of character. The narrow waterway, lined with old mills, is being redeveloped as an urban village with a focus on affordable housing and various art studios. My favourite mural appears in a pub beer garden — Michael Caine in the classic Get Carter (1971), although I think he had fewer clothes on in this scene!

Come on Jack, put it away. You know you’re not going to use it.

The wall of the Laing Art Gallery features The Beach created in 1909 by Laura Knight.

I look forward to returning in December to fill the gaps and reach Scotland. Perhaps I’ll bring an extra layer …. or two.

Walk distance: 16 miles.

Total distance: 3,624 miles.