The Viano has a new battery so it roars into life at 5:30am, bound for Portsmouth Harbour. Luxury sleeping accommodation awaits.
Due to the closure of the Hythe ferry, and the walk from Southampton to Lymington being entirely along roads, inland from the coast, I have decided to take an alternative route via the Isle of Wight. I will return to Southampton when everything re-opens, including the historical places of interest.
There are a lot of moving parts today so who knows where I will end up. A couple of trains take me back to Emsworth and a herd of swans to see me off. The walk round Emsworth Harbour is lovely.
The bridge to Hayling Island allows me to follow the Billy Trail, a beautiful path along the old railway line, last used in 1963.
Time for my first ferry. A tiny one to carry me across Langstone Harbour.
The long walk through Southsea feels a little grim, but things pick up when I reach Old Portsmouth, with its attractive winding lanes and fortifications to explore.
I am either walking faster or I built in too much contingency time, as I am several hours early for my planned ferry to Fishbourne on the Isle of Wight. A very helpful lady brings my booking forward and waives the additional charge. It does only give me 20 minutes to find where I parked the car and get it back to the ferry, but I make it comfortably. There is a wonderful view of the harbour as we pull away.
The ferry is surprisingly efficient. I planned to spend the night at Yarmouth, but having got here so quickly, I decide to try and catch the sunset at The Needles. I thought things might be a little fluid today.
The sun is beaming down and I have been on the go all day, so I stop off at The Highdown Inn, nestled under Tennyson Down, for a pint of Andwell’s King John. Refreshed, I walk up the headland, past the two military batteries designed to guard the West approach to the Solent. It is early evening and this popular tourist spot is almost deserted.
I reach a tiny platform on the cliff edge. There are birds silently gliding and soaring. Black silhouettes. The only sound is from the waves gently rolling up on the shore far below. The view is breathtaking.
The sun disappears behind the low cloud and the temperature drops rapidly so I swiftly head back to the car and a warm sleeping bag.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 319 miles.
Ah yes the mainland is pretty industrial around Southampton, it’s not a great bit of coast. Glad to see the Hayling Island to Portsmouth ferry is running again. That has been intermittently shut down over the last few years. I’m a bit confused on your route to the Isle of Wight. Did you continue walking all the way from Fishbourne to the Needles or did you drive there. If the former that’s a hell of a distance in a day!
If you have time the south coast of the Isle of Wight especially is stunning (especially Freshwater to Ventnor).
Yes, that would be pushing it a bit! I had planned to drive to Yarmouth and walk to The Needles the next day but wanted to view the sunset, so I drove to The Needles. The next day I drove to Yarmouth and walked back to The Needles, which was a gorgeous walk, but still to post. I would love to go back and do the South coast.