Day 24: Lymington to Christchurch

The spring bunting is out in Lymington. The pretty cobbled streets lead me down to the quay.

There’s a small pond next to the harbour and laid-back parents seem happy for their inquisitive ducklings to swim close.

I spend two hours following the winding sea wall perimeter of the Lymington-Keyhaven Nature Reserve, home to various noisy birds.

My iPhone struggles to capture it, but I see a new bird, which I later identify as an avocet. My resident expert, Duncan, explains that the bird is on the RSPB logo in recognition of the success of breeding it back in the UK. The coastal marshes of East Anglia were flooded in 1947 to defend the country against potential invasion. This created the perfect breeding ground for avocets, and they returned after an absence of more than 100 years.

The nature reserve ends at the spit leading out to Hurst Castle. Unfortunately, it’s closed so I skip the three-mile round-trip shingle walk. The incoming tide washes across the coastal road, although several camper vans are still ploughing through the water.

A short climb reveals the soft sand and clay cliffs, ravaged by the sea.

The walk is wonderfully varied. The path turns inland and meanders back to the beach through the wooded Chewton Bunny, used by smugglers in the 18th century.

I finally reach Mudeford Quay and the ferry crossing. It’s getting late, and there are dark rain clouds overhead, with thunder over the sea, so I walk briskly to Christchurch Railway Station.

Christchurch is prettier than expected, so why not explore the historic centre? After all, I’m not going anywhere tonight.

The train journey back to Lymington requires a change at Brockenhurst. On the deserted platform, a dishevelled chap offers me the large box of cider cans under his arm for £8. Perhaps he recognises a kindred spirit — I need a haircut.

I make it back to the Viano and drive back to Christchurch to park on Hengistbury Head for the night.

Walk distance: 18 miles.

Total distance: 343 miles.