Day 262: Aberdeen to Newburgh

Resuming my circuit of the docks, the Shetland ferry hints of adventures to come. I worked on the island for BP as a 19-year-old student, but that’s another story.

A long promenade runs north from the harbour. Drops of rain start to fall. A couple huddle on a bench against the cold wind. A Ferris wheel sits silent. Where is the summer resort life?

The promenade eventually gives way to a lovely sandy beach, which is a relief as my left shin is hurting. This happens from time to time. Probably due to the road walking over the past few days.

Sheltering from the rain in an underpass, I’m drawn to a striking mural. Is it someone I should know?

I enjoy walking on the sand until the River Don forces me inland to the nearest bridge.

The beach on the far side is wild and deserted apart from the occasional pillbox.

The sand stretches for miles. Rafts of eider ducks float in the shallows.

Lockdown seems a long time ago.

I only meet one other person, a woman walking happily through the freezing water. She does not look up.

Helicopters fly overhead, hidden in the dense cloud, servicing the rigs.

Our sea defences have seen better days.

Approaching the River Ythan, a black head floats in the water, then another — five, ten, twenty, like nuns on a wild swim. There’s a resident seal colony on the nearby Forvie Nature Reserve. I leave them behind and turn inland.

Another seal catches my attention, like a big wet labrador. Kneeling in the sand at the water’s edge, it comes closer, curious. Then another appears, even closer. More join, bobbing upright in the water, watching me. I’m enraptured, not moving for 20 minutes, until I’m too cold and must leave my new friends behind.

The Newburgh Inn offers warmth until the bus to Aberdeen arrives. There are no bitters. The manager says he could keep it but there’s no demand. What’s up with Scotland? John Smiths then and peanuts. The hiker’s diet.

Back at the hotel, relaxing in a warm bath, what a fantastic trip this is for wildlife.

Date of walk: Tuesday 25 June 2024.

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 4,380 miles.