This is my last trip of the year, taking a break in December to enjoy the Christmas build-up and spend time with family and friends. Wintry weather is forecast, so the tent is abandoned, the backpack space partly filled with two boxes of luxury mince pies. It may be a little early, but I need a reward for hiking in freezing weather.
The long train journey north to Inverness is as eventful as ever. We make an unscheduled stop at Stevenage to release someone trapped on the departing train at Kings Cross while helping a family member to their seat. Can’t they just leap off if we slow down a tad?
A freight train breaks down north of Berwick, halting all trains up and down the line for a couple of hours. Oh well, another free journey.
Next day
It’s a short walk from the Travelodge to the nearby retail centre to catch a bus to Nairn. I know the area well, having spent a few days limping to the cinema and coffee shops in July, waiting in vain for my shin splints to heal.
Nairn, a popular Victorian seaside resort, courtesy of the climate and railway network — “the Brighton of Scotland” — still has a genteel air, although the hardy wild swimmers changing on the beach would have caused a stir back then.
A golf club barrier is unwelcoming, and I’m too chilled to exercise my right to roam so follow leafy roads through lovely estates bordering the course.
I’m forced to walk a short section of the busy A96 before turning onto a minor road, where major construction work is underway for the new Ardersier Port Energy Transition Facility, supporting the deployment of offshore wind farms. Pausing to check my options on the map, I take a picture, which prompts the tall chap standing next to the excavator to stride across, brandish a walkie-talkie and ask what I’m up to.
Spying for the Russians, officious person.
“Walking the coast of Britain.”
“Ah. Ok.”
Thankfully, pretty Carse Wood lies ahead, full of vibrant colours.
A gorgeous larch draws me deeper into the trees.
There are still sounds of construction nearby. Although I glimpse barren land through the treeline, the vast scale of the development is hidden.
The land to the west is a MOD firing range. What’s this? A new trench system — how can I resist?
Clambering into the forest, I wander round for a while, failing to fall into any trenches.
Success! Men are never too old to play with toys.
Having defeated all attackers, I reluctantly leave the trench system and cross the firing ranges — I did check the firing times — to the sunny beach.
It’s possible to walk round the walls of Fort George at low tide and, knowing that it’s open to the public, I chance to enter via a rear tunnel guarded by a lone soldier. He ignores me. Not as vigilant as Officious Person, or perhaps he’s a professional and knows what he’s doing. At the other end of the tunnel is a sign: Access for Authorised Personnel Only. Best move on quickly.
The 18th-century fort, built to suppress Jacobite ambitions after the nearby Battle of Culloden, is now the home of The Black Watch. I don’t have time to visit all the buildings, popping into a barracks. The Black Watch need more funding.
After a circuit of the ramparts, which all seem in order, I head down to the main entrance and make my way outside.
Sunset approaches and the temperature drops as I follow a coast path round to Ardersier. A man pushes a wheelbarrow across the mudflats, presumably digging up worms for bait.
The final miles to the airport are along the B9039. It’s a terrible road to be walking at dusk — no verge, lots of bends, gorse hedges and fast vehicles.
I’m relieved to reach the airport. The bus to Inverness is not due for half an hour, so I step inside the airport terminal to keep warm and buy a Kit Kat. Two pounds! I’m too stunned to hand it back and take the tiniest bites possible to make it last.
The Black Isle Micropub in Inverness is a great choice for beer and pizza, appropriately named given my destination tomorrow.
Date of walk: Wednesday 13 November 2024.
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 4,652 miles.
Well I see it is not just me that usually has problems getting to the start of my walking trips! I took the route around Fort George and had heard it had been closed since. I am glad you were able to get round too. I had to clamber over boulders as it wasn’t low tide. An I guess now you have discovered how much WH Smith (I’m guessing) inflated their prices at airport shops.
From the shore side I actually managed to climb into one of the outer courtyards, which turned out to contain the burial ground for the regimental mascots.
Two quid….that really is taking the push….that aside lovely photos Tony and I’ve a date for the knee replacement op…so hopefully will be back on the trail again. Cheers
Good luck with the op!
Nice trees. We’re still teaching trench digging! History (sadly) endlessly repeats itself
Autumn is such a lovely time to walk through woodland and, yes, who would have thought men and women would still be cowering in trenches, now with the added terror of drones.
I’ve never been to Fort George – I guess I’m not missing much, right? I have been to the Black Isle though, and if that was your next destination I’m expecting some great pictures!
Actually, if you like operational forts then Fort George is probably one of the best. I’m more of a ruined castle man myself. Don’t skip over the castle bit. 😉
Ha ha! I saw castle in there. And I agree, I prefer those as well.
The idea of you running along the trenches keeping your head down…
Haha! I’m such a small child at times.
I know the airport well, in fact its one of my favourites. Unfortunately Loganair pulled out of our Inverness route earlier this year and it isn’t possible for us to fly to Inverness anymore. I did manage a trip over a few weeks ago and what a difference in climate compared to the West coast!
Hi Janet. I was amazed to experience hardly a drop of rain over the 10 days of hiking. Snow overnight and hailstones during the day, which simply bounced off my gear without making me wet. Beautiful hiking weather as long as you wear sufficient layers.
We were having our picnic on top of a hill above Loch Ness and it was too warm for jackets. There were even a few midges out!