Due to a landslip, the path from Charmouth to Lyme Regis is diverted inland, tracking less scenic main roads, before cutting through woodland and a pristine golf course. The popular beach resort is quiet at this early hour, with colourful terraced streets. The downside is the cafes are not open yet. I eventually find one serving coffee, but they only serve local binmen. I should borrow one of their orange Day-Glo vests.
There are a few keen swimmers and runners on the empty beach, enjoying the space and peace before the half-term holiday hordes arrive. What treasures do they leave buried in the sand?
The famous Cobb is deserted. Sadly, Meryl is not here.
The path beyond the harbour climbs steeply through the trees. Decorative woodwork marks the county boundary with Devon.
Shortly after, I enter the Undercliffs Reserve, a mass of tangled trees and lush vegetation, formed in 1839 by a huge landslip. The gnarly trail through the woods is almost seven miles long. Once you enter, there is no way out other than to reach the end or retrace your steps.
Taking the advice of a runner I met yesterday, a sign for Chimney Rock tempts me off the main path. The only sounds are the birds, the constant hum of insects and my footsteps.
There is a stillness, almost magical. All I need now is for Galadriel to appear.
Returning to the main path, I don’t come across another soul for two hours, until I meet a handful of people that have entered from the Axmouth end. Everyone stops to chat, wanting to share the experience.
There are too many branching paths to explore, but I choose an interesting one that climbs up a steep hill and plunges down a muddy bank to the sea. A mysterious rope is tied to a tree root. I pack away the hiking poles and climb down, slipping and sliding.
The shore is blasted and ragged. I learn two lessons: make sure you fix a landmark to find the rope again on your return and it’s a lot easier descending a rope than climbing back up!
That’s the last diversion, as I have a long way to go. The forest slows me down like one of those fictional characters lulled into sleep. The path opens up slightly to reveal towering cliffs.
Hansel and Gretel?
I’m slightly disappointed when the path emerges into open meadows, as my journey through the trees has ended. It’s a gentle walk to the pretty beach at Seaton before catching a bus back to Charmouth. What a special day.
Walk distance: 12 miles.
Total distance: 443 miles.
More tip top pics Tony. Some really interesting trees/vegetation (and you continue to be lucky with the weather).
Thanks Peter. Definitely a place to visit if you are ever down that way.
Yes a strange but interesting place and a surprisingly tough walk (it doesn’t take as long as the signs warn but still, none of it is flat and often quite narrow). This is another bit I did twice. I did the coast path but I also managed to make it all the way along the shore (outside of the landslip) between Lyme Regis and Axmouth. A tough route and not one I’d recommended but I do remember seeing some fossils and of course coming across some truly remote beaches given the difficulties in access.
Just back from this week’s eventful trip. The shore route looks pretty challenging based on the small section that I explored.