Day 36: Paignton to Kingswear

I’m looking forward to a wild and challenging walk. Due to bus limitations, I’m starting from pretty Kingswear. Sadly, it’s a little early for the steam train, still asleep in the shed.

Kingswear Castle.

There’s a tough early climb from the castle, meeting Michael Wright, a thru-hiker in the SWCP Facebook group, walking the entire path in 30 days. I pick his brains on gear before he powers ahead.

Mew Stone.
More fellow walkers.

Scabbacombe Sands is the halfway marker where I stop for lunch before another long ascent. Walking past a rocky outcrop on the beach, an elderly chap, stark naked, wanders across the pebbles. I don’t fancy watching that while eating my ham roll so retreat to the other side of the beach. A group of kayakers also change course to land near me.

Despite bringing two bottles of water, the heat and exertion take their toll, and I run out for the first time. My pace has noticeably slowed as I trudge up the hardest climb at Southdown Cliff, eventually reaching Berry Head viewpoint and a cafe. I’m not a big Diet Coke drinker, but the first sip is unbelievable, and I’m full of energy again within minutes.

I stroll down into Brixham which is incredibly busy. There are long queues outside all the pubs and bars round the harbour. I’m too tired for this so find a quiet pub tucked away from the crowds and savour a well-deserved pint of Doombar.

There are still another five miles to the car. The track winds through pretty woods and small coves before hitting the final urban stretch. Having climbed just under a Pyg, this makes two tough days in a row, but what a superb walk along the rugged coastline. I’ll need several stops on the long drive home for coffee and chocolate!

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 506 miles.

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