After last week’s successful camping test, I’ve stepped up to a three-day hike. It is a logistical challenge with three rivers to cross. Two have tiny ferries, operating limited hours, and the third can only be crossed on foot at low tide. I must reach the first ferry across the River Avon by 4 pm or I will not make it to Plymouth by Friday. Unfortunately, the long train and bus journey to Salcombe is delayed by an hour, leaving only four hours to walk 12 miles. This will be a test in the heat, with a full pack and much climbing.
The scenery is spectacular from start to finish. People kindly step out of the way to let me pass. Carrying a full pack, rather than a day pack, seems to garner more sympathy or perhaps it’s the flailing hiking poles.
I make it to the ferry with weary legs and 30 minutes to spare. The ferryman gives me two options. He can take me for £4 or show me where to wade across. I reach for the cash.
The boat drops me off on the far bank. Freed from the clock, I take my boots off and enjoy a late lunch.
There’s a lovely sandy beach to Bigbury-on-Sea. Several people wade across the mouth of the river, but they are wearing wetsuits and not carrying a backpack. The water rises above their waists.
I am running low on water so take the opportunity to restock at the pub in Challaborough caravan site with a courtesy pint of Doombar. The coastline after the holiday park is remote and striking. I meet the odd hiker, camper, and fisherman. My favourite walking times are early morning and dusk when it’s peaceful and wonderfully lit.
It’s late when I reach Wonwell Beach, the River Erme crossing point. Unfortunately, there’s nowhere to camp, and the air is heavy with insects. I backtrack a mile up to the cliffs for a lovely breeze and fine views over the sea. There are still no flat areas to pitch, but I’m too tired to walk further. I fear a restless night of slipping down the slope, but take the opportunity to explore the headland in the golden light of sunset.
Walk distance: 18 miles.
Total distance: 548 miles.
Lovely light in those last few photos.
One of the benefits of camping, rather than having to spend that time travelling back to my car.
Hi Tony, 18 miles, that is a big day for a full pack – respect.
My glutes and, later, lower back felt it. I was walking very slowly by the third day. My back is still stiff but I am not hiking this week due to the England semi-final and a trip to Wimbledon, so time to recover!