The mid-morning ferry carries me across the River Tamar and I step off into Cornwall. The path immediately winds through the attractive grounds of Mount Edgcumbe House.
It’s a scorching morning, so I cool down with a pint of Dartmoor Legend outside The Devonport Inn at pretty Kingsand. A sailor tells me the village was the setting for Mr. Turner, starring Timothy Spall, a film I missed. He’s heading to The Isles of Scilly and convinces me to include them in my trek.
Leaving the village, the track has sweeping views and hidden gems to explore.
The 360-degree views from Rame Head are wonderful. Far below, coasteerers leap off the rocks into the sea. I wish I could do the same to cool down. A wet dog joins me, hoping to share my sandwich.
The rest of the afternoon walk is lovely, despite the heat. Things start to go wrong when I reach Portwrinkle, my intended stop for the night. There are no campsites nearby so I must wild camp. It’s a steep climb out of the village and the path is narrow with high vegetation on both sides. I walk a couple of miles without finding a single open space to pitch my tent, finally arriving at the next village, Downderry. I am starting to flag and there is a welcome sign for a campsite inland. Why was it not shown on my Google map search? It’s a naturist camp! I’m spared a difficult decision as it is closed.
I trudge on for another few miles, along roads through Seaton, and back up the cliffs. There is still nothing but an overgrown track. The sun is setting, which is great for photos, but not good for my sanity.
It’s getting too dark to see clearly under the overhanging trees when I spot a gate into a farm field. There’s a tiny, rough patch of earth, surrounded by long grass, which makes me a little apprehensive about ticks, but I have little choice. Using my head torch, I quickly get the tent up and jump inside. I had better be up and away early before the farmer comes round. I fall asleep to the sound of nearby sheep.
Postscript: Rame Head features in the sea shanty “Spanish Ladies”, as the second point of England sighted (after Dodman Point – which lies ahead) when sailing north from Spain. The lyrics map out my journey along the South Coast, with even a special mention of Dungeness. Check out this beautiful version by Sarah Blasko: https://youtu.be/9tRYMqLHu0U. Slightly better than the version by Robert Shaw in Jaws!
Walk distance: 18 miles.
Total distance: 592 miles.
Hi Tony, Rame Head also features in Mr Turner. You’ll easily recognise it from the chapel. Another big day with a full pack, well done.
I know of the song and have listened to it before but never made any attention to the words, and yes it describes our journey along the south coast ending up at the South Foreland.
The long day was not intentional but we live and learn! I will have to watch the movie now.
That is a lovely stretch of coast and what wonderful weather you had. You are making very rapid progress!
All three days were wonderful. Cornwall is off to a flying start.
Hi Tony…again. This is a piece of drone footage of Rame Head you might want to look at. Its ok, but the music is ….effing amazing its called Heart of Courage from Two Steps from Hell (an American production music company), its something that sounds just like what Ramin Djawadi (GOT) would have written.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsHW1n8PQAs
Excellent link, thanks. I have heard that track before and it is brilliant. I am a big fan of GOT, both the books and the TV series, apart from the disastrous final series of course.
The coast is surprisingly rugged on that stretch, isn’t it. I can remember the excitement of stepping off the ferry and into Cornwall, a county I’d never been to before.
I felt the same. It is all new to me.