Falmouth is the start of my first four day hike, as I need to reach the next train station at Penzance. There is a line of well travelled camper vans parked along the seafront. One is bulging with so many plants that it is hard to imagine where the driver sleeps. “On an adventure before dementia!” is painted across the back. I like that.
It is a gloomy morning, but Trebah Gardens adds a splash of colour. There are warning signs for the herbicide battle against the encroaching Japanese knotweed.
A tiny ferry carries me across Helford River. The ferryman explains that, due to the huge influx of visitors this summer, long queues form on both sides of the water towards the end of day. The ferry stops running at 5pm, so tempers fray, with two families fighting to get on the boat yesterday. Glad I arrived early. On the far side there are some attractive inlets to walk round.
There is no ferry at Gillan Creek. A young couple tell me that they lingered on the jetty until some kind holidaymakers gave them a lift across. I try the same thing. Nothing. Must be the beard. I console myself with a magnum and follow the road skirting the creek, which is surprisingly very pretty.
It was a long walk today and, as usual, I could only start around noon after the long journey from home. This means it is late when I arrive at Porthallow, but I am happy to reach the half way point of the SWCP. Only another 315 miles to go!
I am tired, thirsty, and hungry, so head for the nearby Five Pilchards Inn. I was told by the very helpful family that run Fat Apples, my campsite for tonight, that the pub was likely to be fully booked for dinner. Best to take the initiative and play the sympathy card. I walk into the bar and approach the staff with my arms open wide. This must be the promised land!
“You’ll be wanting food then?” said the barman with a wry smile.
“I’ll check with the chef to see if we can squeeze you in. You don’t have six mates hiding round the corner?”.
They are brilliant and I find myself sitting at a small table with my boots off, toes unfurling with joy, and a pint of Tribute. Food arrives shortly after. A little taste of heaven – with due credit to Taylor Swift. I am a recent convert, as her two seductive “folklorian woods” lockdown albums were produced by Aaron Dessner of The National, one of my favourite bands.
It is dark when I leave the pub, so I find the small campsite by the light of my head torch. I pick my way carefully through the trees, over a bridge, and pitch near a small tent draped in fairy lights. We exchange greetings in the dark, before I climb into my tent and fall asleep instantly.
Walk distance: 17 miles.
Total distance: 672 miles.
Hi Tony, I remember walking past The Five Pilchards Inn, it was very early in the morning though. What does’nt go down well with a pint of Tribute? Tribute was originally called “Daylight Robbery”, to celebrate the 1999 solar eclipse, but was changed to “Tribute” the brewery’s 150 year birthday.
I feel my knowledge of real ales growing with each walk due to your input! I actually bought some bottled Tribute for our recent Lake District holiday. I believe there are still some bottles in the garage. 🙂
This is a delightful area, isn’t it. If there is a ferry across that creek it only runs at high tide. At low tide there are supposed to be stepping stones, but they were too slippery for me. I gather the locals just wade across! Glad you managed to get a meal.
Yes, I did read about the stepping stones. Unfortunately the tide was too high. Looked a little muddy for wading. It is only just over a mile round the creek and quite enjoyable…..with a magnum!