The electronic fog horn at Lizard Lighthouse, repeating every 30 seconds, failed to wake me during the night. I had the strangest dream that Dave Grohl was playing an acoustic version of “Times Like These” at the campsite. I wish. It is early, so I take the opportunity to jump in the shower and explore the site. It is wonderfully laid-back. I can see why some people never leave.
My stomach is complaining about the lack of a meal last night so I will try the cafe overlooking Lizard Point. Unfortunately, I choose a different path out of the village, which brings me out another mile along the coast, so I have to backtrack to the cafe. Unbelievably, this is my first full English breakfast since I began hiking 10 months ago. Not a bad place to start! The sun is kind and makes a brief appearance through the clouds.
Breakfast is well timed. As I finish, the sun vanishes behind the gloomy clouds. It is decent walking weather, high up on the cliffs – warm, dry, with a cool breeze. The coastline is wild and invigorating.
I take a break to explore St Winwaloe’s Church at Gunwalloe, “The church of the storms”, which seems apt today. It is the only Cornish church sited on a beach.
Back on the path, the clouds darken, the wind picks up, and rain falls.
I take a short detour to walk along the banks of The Loe, the largest natural freshwater lake in Cornwall, separated from the sea by the shingle bank of Loe Bar.
The weather is atrocious when I reach the fishing village of Porthleven, and I hunker down in the functional Harbour Inn until the wind and rain drop. For the second night running I have chosen a pub that is not serving food due to staff shortages. Crisps and beer again then. My diet is terrible.
It is a 30 minute walk up to Penrose campsite, which is perfect for £8 a night. A sheltered field, clean showers and toilets. I am tired and pitch once more in the dark. Sleep comes easy.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 702 miles.
Is that *two* pots of tea I see with your breakfast?!
I assume the first photo is your campsite? Looks like a lovely garden. Porthleven is notoriously windy and I think your photos have come out remarkably well considering the weather you had. I remember having some rain for the last bit of that walk but it being mostly dry.
The Lizard is a lovely bit of Cornwall and doesn’t seem to get as busy despite some lovely beaches.
The costal walkers diet isn’t always the best is it? Though crisps , beer and a full English breakfast does sound nice I wondered if your luck of always managing to find somewhere to eat for the evening, even in the peak season, might run out.
One pot of extra hot water!
The first photo is my pitch spot. The first three photos are the campsite.
I do research ahead for pubs at the end of each day, but I never book as I don’t know what time I will get there, so it is pot luck whether they have space to eat. It should get easier as Autumn approaches. Looking forward to the schools going back!
How much weight do you carry each day ?
Hi Ian. About 9Kg which includes a litre of water.
Looks like an amazing campsite and a great breakfast. I’ve given up relying on pubs for food. Some of them are now private houses, some only open at weekends, many don’t open for food during the hours I actually want to eat. There’s that awful dead time between cafes shutting (ridiculously early imho) at 4pm and pubs opening at 6:30 – which is exactly the time period when we finish our walks and want/need something to eat. Sorry. Rant over.
On a nutritional note, I often have a meal of cider and crisps too, but I usually add in a packet of peanuts for protein 😄
I will make a note of your nutritional advice! 😀