North Downs Way: Day 9

I turned 65 yesterday, although family celebrations are deferred until more of the children are home. Nevertheless, Max baked fresh bread and cooked a delicious breakfast on the day. He also introduced me to the musical theme from the Outer Wilds computer game, where the lead instrument is a banjo, my current learning obsession. The game tells of travellers scattered across the universe, believing themselves to be alone, all playing the same simple melody on a different instrument, until one day they hear each other across space, coming together in harmony: they are not alone. It rather touched me. So now, each member of the family has chosen an instrument, and we will play together at Christmas. A single may follow, or not.

https://youtu.be/YR_wIb_n4ZU?si=B6x1YwnYodJHx1zK

Back on Planet Earth, Canterbury is slightly less hectic first thing in the morning. The dreary sky washes out the colours, so it’s not a day for photos, but the Westgate Gardens do their best.

The official guide describes today’s walk as a “predominantly agricultural section”, which does not set my pulse racing. Still, hiking is good for the body and soul, and every trail has something to discover if you look hard enough, such as snow under a Christmas tree in summer.

Following in the footsteps of pilgrims, what’s this? Some strange ritual to shed clothing as they move further away from Canterbury? I really don’t want to find a cassock next.

A great idea for my garden bins.

A beautiful sea of scorpionweed surrounds Woolage village.

Some gates are not meant to be opened.

I pass several horses and ponies, all battling the heat and flies. This little beauty runs over in hope of an apple.

Creeping thistles encroach, clouds of seeds swirling in the breeze, no place for hayfever sufferers.

The Monumenta Romana sculpture on the Waldershare Estate combines an octagonal timber seat for weary travellers with a cupola, originally intended to top a nearby 17th-century folly commissioned by the estate’s owner, left incomplete.

Another field, another crop, as the maize towers above my head. Why do I think of raptors?

Golden wheat shimmers in the breeze.

On top of the downs, approaching familiar Dover, I save the last of my water and biscuits for a viewpoint. Sadly, the path ends at a sunken road, surrounded by trees, running down to the valley floor. This has to be the most disappointing finish to a trail ever. Perhaps they wanted to hide the town? The coastal approaches allow fine views.

Passing quickly through faded streets, the end-of-trail marker sits on the promenade.

It feels good to be back by the sea, even in this busy concrete port.

This is not quite the end of my North Downs Way adventure, as the alternative route from Wye is highly recommended, so I’ll finish with that next week, stopping at Folkestone. I don’t think I can face Dover a fourth time.

Dates of walk: Tuesday 14 July 2026.

Walk distance: 20 miles.