This week’s plan is to hike from Penzance to St Ives over three days of increasing difficulty. The final day is rated “severe” by the SWCP association. Although my new Keen Targhee II boots seem perfect for my wide feet, they only arrived a couple of days ago, so I am wary of breaking them in on such a tough hike. It is back to my very old, worn boots for a final fling. At least they will get to tread on Land’s End.
The first few miles are along rather dull tarmac, but Newlyn is interesting. It is the largest fishing port in England by weight of fish caught – sardines primarily. I can’t help thinking of that Dave Allen sketch with the early morning workers leaving their houses and forming a compressed line, finally revealed to be on their way to the sardine packing factory.
I pass Penlee lifeboat station on the way to Mousehole, with a memorial plaque for the loss of the entire crew of RNLB Solomon Browne in 1981. I remember the tragedy well.
My mood is lifted by a colourful, eccentric display in an allotment. Some ideas for the garden perhaps?
Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve is glorious, with a profusion of butterflies and bees all around me, as I navigate the narrow track.
In Lamora Cove I come across a lonely Celtic cross, another memorial, this time for a fatal fall.
The path descends to the beach at Boskenna Cliff and, in the absence of a signpost, I lose the track for a while, trying to stay close to the cliff rather than just striding out over the rocks.
Back on the correct trail, there are a couple of fishermen working on their boats at pretty Penberth Cove.
Afternoon!
No response. Grumpy fishermen. How come Michael Portillo and Kate Hudson always get a hearty response to their greetings on their coastal walking programmes?
I pitch at Treen Farm campsite, just outside Porthcurno. They are very friendly and squeeze me in, despite being full. I also grab the last table at the nearby Logan Rock inn, albeit pretty much in the doorway and next to the loudspeakers. It is a cosy seat, with hot food, and a cold beer. What more do I need?
Walk distance: 11 miles.
Total distance: 728 miles.
Hi Tony,
you’ll soon be turning the corner around Cornwall. You’ve fairly whizzed along the south coast.
The joys of early retirement!
It looks an enjoyable walk and of course a beautiful part of the coast.
It was a lovely day and, as it turned out, simply the prelude to another two days of stunning scenery.
That very western bit of Cornwall is my favourite part. So many lovely beaches and many of them quite undiscovered. You will have already done it now of course but I don’t think the “Severe” part was too bad. The worst part of the SWCP is probably Bude to Hartland though also the area west and east of Lulworth (which you’ve done).
I was lucky with the weather on the Pendeen to St Ives stretch. Dry conditions make it a lot easier. I found it more about concentration and foot placement rather than exertion.
Ah yes a bit of a boulder field I seem to remember!