I must be getting used to camping, as it’s 7am when I finally surface. I’ll need to set my alarm at this rate.
It is going to be a tough day. The first few valleys are coated with gorgeous dark green and copper ferns.
The valley at Jacket’s Point is a beast, with magnificent views, both along the coast …
… and up the valley.
Climbing out of the valley, strong gusts of wind buffet me towards the cliff edge. I crouch down and push off my left pole, with my right shoulder dipped into the wind, until I am back on a safer, wider path.
The sheep know the best place to shelter from the wind, although several have found a way through the fence to the path.
With a barbed wire fence on one side, and the cliff edge on the other, there is only one way forward, and the sheep head back to the hole in the fence.
The valley at Backways Cove is spectacular, flanked by towering cliffs. A walker, the first I have seen since Port Gaverne, is working their way down the opposite side of the valley. At which moment my feet slide out from under me and I fall on my backside. Did they see me? That’s my credibility gone.
The path seems to vanish, plunging straight down to Trebarwith Strand. Glad I’m walking clockwise.
The weather is getting worse, so I’m relieved to find the Port William pub open and serving food. Steak and chips, washed down with a pint. Must I leave? The other customers watch me head out into the mist, wind and rain. Just another crazy guy.
I have Tintagel Castle to myself. Morgana has conjured up a fearsome wind to keep curious folk away.
The natural harbour at Boscastle provides protection from the wind. Sadly, the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic is closed. Not that my active imagination needs any further ideas for the dark nights.
I have more success with a delicious meal at the wonderfully named, Cobweb Inn.
It’s a long walk along a road to reach Trebyla Farm campsite. A large, sheltered field, with good facilities, for only £8. I’m pretty tired after a long day, crossing 13 valleys, and unpack quickly. This is not good. I put all my gear in various dry bags. Except my sleeping bag, which is just in the stuff sack it came with. It is a little wet, the last thing I need. Hopefully my body heat will dry it out quickly.
It is 3am. The hiking poles are shaking in the gusting wind, with the machine gun rattle of rain on the tent. Pots and pans are rolling across the campsite. Going to be a fun night.
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 861 miles.
Yes sheep are stupid, they can never seem to work out if you are walking on a path your likely to carry on in the same direction. Glad you saved it. I remember in Wales having to pick up a lamb and put it over the fence that it had got the wrong side of and got itself into a right panic, repeatedly throwing itself at the fence.
From your pictures it seems autumn has arrived! That rocky valley near Tintagel is gorgeous …. on a nice day. Strange how the pay hut at the castle still has 2 staff members (I presume) inside despite being closed. Don’t know why they didn’t just lock up and go home for the day.
Yes, we had a family hike to Rocky Valley a few years ago and it is a lovely place.
The chaps in the hut came out to see me. It seemed they were advising people what to do if they turned up and had bought tickets. I would not fancy crossing the bridge in those winds.
Hi Tony, some tough walking there, especially with a full pack! And more to come, until you reach Bude. The good news is that for the next 100+ miles you are getting closer to home, which is helpful now that you are losing the light. keep it going.
The shorter days are making a big difference. I could walk until 10pm earlier in the year, whereas now I am pitching in the dark around 7:30. Travel times to and from the walk are getting a little shorter though.