Day 77: Weston-super-Mare to Clevedon

The England Coast Path is still not complete, so today I face a 17 mile gap that many long-distance coastal walkers dislike, having to divert inland to cross the River Yeo. I’m determined to take something positive from the day.

I leave my Harry Potter inspired, cupboard-under-the-stairs hotel room, and follow the deserted esplanade in the dark.

The gothic Birnbeck Pier, and island, loom out of the darkness. I would love to explore, but the pier is derelict, the decking badly decayed, and the metalwork rusting. There is a car parked next to the pier entrance, loud reggae music thumping out of the open windows. Some strange sunrise ritual? I like it, but not sure the nearby residents will, at 6:30am.

I’ve lost my bearings a little in the dark, walking along the road to Sand Bay, instead of a woodland track. It is still gloomy when I reach a lay-by, with a car parked, the boot open. As I approach, a man steps out of the car and reaches into the boot. A deserted road, a car, and me. My mind flashes through all the possible outcomes. He turns, with something in his hand. Deodorant! He sprays under his t-shirt, gets back into his car, and leans back to resume his sleep. I almost laugh.

I climb up to Sand Point, enjoying gorgeous views all round, warmed by the sun. This is the moment. I also get my first glimpse of the Severn Bridge, my gateway to Wales.

It is a lovely walk along the cliffs at Middle Hope, and I find a path, not marked on my OS map, crossing the fields, and circling Woodspring Priory.

After a short section of lane walking, there is a public bridleway across the fields from Collum Farm to Ebdon Farm, although it is barely discernible at times.

There is another cross country path marked on my map from Ebdon Court Farm to Hippisley’s Farm. This one is even more difficult to follow, with a maze of water-filled ditches to cross. Every footbridge and hedgerow gap is overgrown with brambles, snagging my clothing. There is long grass, squelching mud around the cattle gates, and electric fences to open; not walker friendly. A couple following me, relying on my OS map, give up and turn back. I persevere, determined to support this right of way, and finally make it out to a lane close to the M5.

An unavoidable stretch of road walking takes me over the M5, and along a path next to the A370. Heading down to Hewish Farm, the OS map leads me straight through someone’s back garden. A dog barks loudly. This can’t be right? At the bottom of the garden is a wide ditch. I don’t fancy a swim, so head back up the garden. The dog starts barking again. I’m going to be popular. Ignoring the OS map, I skirt round the ditch, and make my way to Phipp’s sluice bridge, the nearest River Yeo crossing to the coast.

I walk through the fields for a while, parallel to the M5. Three swans launch into the air in front of me, ascend over the motorway, and turn to fly parallel to the traffic. I cross over the M5 again, and follow several country lanes, back down to the coast.

Clevedon has the most elegant pier. Opened in 1869, the open ironwork structure provides minimum resistance to the wind and rain. Sir John Betjeman spoke of “Clevedon being the most beautiful pier in England”. Hard to argue with that. I will take a closer look next time, but it’s been a long day, and I only stopped once for a brief 15 minute lunch, so the Royal Oak beckons. A delicious pint of Butcombe Original, Wales v Fiji on the screen, and some convivial company. The bar stool feels like a comfy armchair. I would like to stay longer, but need to start the long journey home.

I can understand why this section is not popular, but I enjoyed the challenge and the morning scenery. I only have one more free hiking week before Christmas, which should see me well into Wales.

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 1,096 miles.