The attractive sandstone of Penrith and Carlisle rail stations announce the North West. Time to cross the border and begin my coastal walk of Scotland until the midges emerge and drive me back down south.
Despite it being 2pm, with 15 miles to walk, I’m already distracted by attractive gardens next to the bridge over the River Eden.
There is a pleasant path along the bank of the broad river. It’s too hot for trousers. I have to repack my backpack just to find my shorts; another rookie error.
A solitary chap with a large beard is standing next to a medieval looking banner among a collection of white tents, some of which look like they might blow away in a strong breeze. A work-in-progress scout camp or some historical reenactment? He’s too far away to ask.
I leave the river at pretty Rockcliffe and follow the noise of the M6 to the River Esk crossing.
A grim road section, running alongside the M6, takes me to Gretna Green. Fortunately there is little traffic.
The sky is ominous, but the evening light is gorgeous. The place is deserted. Where are the carriages at dusk, dropping off furtive young couples?
There’s no campsite nearby, and I could not see any obvious place to wild camp, so I’m staying at a motel two miles further north. The warm glow transforms even the most ordinary road walk to end a relaxing first day.
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 1,655 miles.
Tony. I don’t know how you do it but you make 15 miles seem easy.
Hi David. After slogging through wind and rain on the West Highland Way, a nice flat walk in the sun, together with the long evenings, felt very relaxing. It did not stay that way all week. 🙂
I like Rick’s Bar, and those arms are quite bizarre!
Apparently the arms are made by a Durham artist from weathering steel, the same material as the Angel of the North.
That road section by the M6 really is unremittingly grim, isn’t it?
Yup, even worse than Avonmouth.