Maisie appears to tell me it’s time to get up.
A woodland track should take me back to the sea, but the path becomes progressively more overgrown until I’m wading through chest high ferns, finding myself at the edge of a 50 foot drop. I’m not climbing down, so there’s no choice but to cut through the undergrowth and backtrack to Culzean Castle, which has steps down to the rocky beach.
Culzean Bay is deserted and tranquil as I walk across the damp sand next to the breaking waves, the clifftop castle receding behind me. A heron skims across the water. A long-haired man appears from the trees, clutching a mug in both hands, and sits on a rock watching my progress.
Arriving at Dunure, I explore the castle before relaxing at the Harbour View coffee shop. I’m the second round Britain coastal walker they have met. The first was Daniel McNeil, who is walking for the veterans charity SSAFA.
The path becomes more rugged, scrambling along the shore against the rising tide, with steep cliffs offering few exit points.
There are voices from a group of tents nestled under the cliffs.
The track turns inland, rising steeply, following an impressive railway cutting.
A signpost warns that the coastal route round the Heads of Ayr is blocked at high tide and to use an alternative inland route. I’m bang on high tide, but the beach looks too beautiful not to explore. It means a long climb back up the hill if I can’t get round the headland, but I’ve plenty of time as it’s a relatively short day.
It’s a gorgeous spot — one of the highlights of the week. There’s no danger of getting trapped as the tide is on the turn. It’s very tight in places, but a narrow strip of shingle between the endless sea and the magnificent fern-clad, towering cliffs allows me to pass without climbing over rocks or getting wet. I’m lucky with the high tide height, which is relatively low at 1.99m. It’s exhilarating, being dwarfed by the deserted landscape.
A gentle stroll along the following beach curves beneath Greenan Castle, precariously perched on the cliff. Will it still be here in another 100 years?
Crossing the River Doon into Ayr, a family of swans pass under the bridge. A peaceful end to a stunning walk.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 1,963 miles.
Wow, I’m familiar with Dunure but I’ve never seen Greenan Castle before. Precarious indeed – I wouldn’t like to walk under it!
I would have liked to climb up to take a closer look, but it was at that point in the day when I’m thinking of putting my feet up! 🙂
The tide was impassable when I did the Dunure to Ayr section. I was okay with that but, having now seen your photo of Greenan Castle, I am retrospectively regretting it; that’s some spectacular perching for a castle!