Day 127: Ardrossan to Kildonan

Previous day

Most of the day will be spent travelling by train and ferry. As I prepare to leave the house, I clumsily step on my backpack hip belt buckle and snap a piece off, so now it can’t be tightened enough to take the load round my hips; not a good start.

The plan for the week is to walk the 65 mile Isle of Arran Coastal Way, including several diversions inland to places of interest. Arran is often called “Scotland in miniature”, with dramatic highland landscape to the north and green lowland countryside in the south. I’m walking clockwise from the ferry terminal at Brodick on the east coast, aiming to finish with some mountain hikes.

On leaving the ferry, I’ve a short walk to the next village, Lamlash. The trail is immediately lush and peaceful, with plenty of wild images appearing out of the trees.

The towering granite cliffs remind me of the Heads of Ayr across the Firth of Clyde, presumably having the same geological origin.

Rounding Clauchlands Point there are fine views of Holy Island, owned by a Buddhist community, with seals basking on the nearby rocks. It’s possible to visit the island, but I can’t fit everything into one week. My campsite is further round the bay, sheltered from the wind, and midge heaven.

Today

I shake the midges out of the tent vestibules and pack quickly before the little devils can feed, although the Smidge cream seems to be doing the trick of fending them off.

The path round Lamlash Bay is tricky at high tide, being a mix of slippy boardwalks and a wet, seaweed covered, stony shore. I’m careful not to disturb the basking seals.

Kingscross Point, at the end of the bay, is the site of an ancient fort, with impressive views in all directions. It would make a superb camping spot, but the area is marked as private.

At Whiting Bay you can either continue along the coast or climb up into the the forested hills. It’s an easy decision, as there are a couple of places I want to visit inland. Several signs mention red squirrels, but I’ve no luck despite pausing several times to listen and scan the trees

Glenashdale Falls are magnificent, viewed from a wooden platform extending out over the chasm.

Further up the hills lie the Giants’ Graves — the remains of two Neolithic chambered tombs.

The heavy cloud cover has finally cleared, allowing the sun to shine, with a welcome cooling breeze. A mysterious jar appears.

This has to be opened.

I read a few messages and would add my own if there was a spare scrap of paper.

Back on the trail, the tall pines sway and creak in the wind. This triggers a poor rendition of the “Trail of the Lonesome Pine”, as I only know two lines — I need more hiking songs. It’s a wonderful hilltop walk, providing a series of stunning views, including my old friend Ailsa Craig.

The Seal Shore campsite at Kildonan is brilliant with great facilities and a friendly warden. My pitch is right on the sea-front. There’s a strong, gusty wind, so I use my Delta pegs for extra stability.

It was a short walk today, which allows me plenty of time to explore the sea, play with a couple of red setters, and grab a pint at the nearby hotel.

Settling down to relax with The Essex Serpent, my peace is shattered when two women arrive, each with three young daughters, and pitch right next to me.

“Apologies in advance for the noise.”

“No problem, you are perfect wind breaks!”

They have fun assembling the large tents in the strong wind. I offer to help but they are fine and we have a good chat.

Two intrepid looking chaps arrive and debate whether to pitch on the other side of me.

“Great spot to view the sunrise!” says one.

“The seaweed is a bit stinky” says the other and they retreat up the hill. Perhaps not so intrepid.

I fall asleep listening to a bed-time story from my neighbours, satisfied at passing the 2,000 mile mark.

Walk distance: 19 miles.

Total distance: 2,005 miles.