A strong wind shakes the tent as I wake to mist and rain. Time for hot oats and to hunker down until the rain eases.
Packing quickly and heading downhill, I’m buffeted by the wind sweeping round the heathered slopes, but it drops away the further I descend.
The plan was to walk to Lochranza through the hills, via Glenn Catacol, Gleann Diomhan, and Gleann Easan Biorach. It’s pointless as the visibility is so poor, so I follow the coast road. The rain is relentless. I meet a chap from the Clyde who is abandoning his hike due to the terrible weather. Lacking the luxury of short travel distances, you just ride out the weather and hope for better times ahead.
A bus stop in Catacol offers brief shelter and the luxury of a chair. I subsequently learn that all bus shelters on Arran have a chair donated by a nearby house — what a lovely tradition.
Lochranza is shrouded in mist. My eating and sanctuary plans are disrupted when the only restaurant in the village is closed due a staff medical emergency, with an airlift off the island.
The campsite is excellent, run by a couple from Newcastle, where I grew up, so we have a good chat. The “Base Camp” room provides respite from the rain, a comfy sofa, and a place to charge my phone. There are several fellow hikers to chat to, including Dave from Manchester, who is a similar age.
The Arran Distillery is nearby and has a cafe, so I head over. Unfortunately, every other visitor to the village has the same idea, seeking shelter from the wind and rain. They tell me they are full, but after a little pleading and, commenting that I look like a drowned rat, they kindly open up a new table for me. It always feels like winning the jackpot — hot soup, a tasty burger, and a cold Isle of Arran Blonde beer. Dave also blags his way in and joins me. He saw otters and dolphins yesterday on the stretch of coast that I’ll be walking tomorrow — fingers crossed!
Walk distance: 7 miles.
Total distance: 2,041 miles.
Like the chair in the bus shelter idea. We have plants in ours! I think a few whiskies would have been welcome after that day – or a hot toddy!
Plants sound lovely too. Perhaps I need to add a small hip flask to my pack!
My favourite part of Arran, what a pity you haven’t seen it at its best. I think maybe bus stop photo was taken outside what use to be The Catacol Bay Hotel, where I first stayed. Fine whiskies in the bar I recall!
Yes, the hotel is still shown on the OS map, but sadly no more.
Love Lochranza, but I’ve never seen it quite like that. Not sure I knew you grew up in Newcastle – so did I for part of my childhood (1968-73) and all my childhood was spent in NE England.
We were there at the same time! I was born in 1961 and lived there until I left for Uni down south.
Hi Tony,
It’s Dave from Manchester.
I completed the coastal way. What a beautiful island.
It was great to meet you. Sorry I didn’t say goodbye, but I didn’t want to wake you and I wanted to get an early start.
Good luck with the rest of your hike.
Hi Dave. It was good to meet up. Glad you finished the walk despite the weather. I spent a long time searching for otters without success!