Eastbourne is a little more familiar now, and I arrive early enough to park next to the start of the South Downs Way, although our paths quickly diverge as I climb up the first of many hills along the iconic Seven Sisters walk. It doesn’t take long to reach the infamous Beachy Head, the highest chalk cliff in Britain. The fencing along the edge is minimal, making it all the more intimidating. The lighthouse is 530 feet below, and I want a photograph but my line of sight is terrible — a few tentative steps closer to the edge but still no joy. A map check shows I’m in the wrong place, so another few hundred yards are needed before I can finally peer cautiously over the edge and get a picture.
Despite the grey clouds, the views ahead are spectacular. Waves of rolling grass contrasting with jagged white edges. Bell Tout Lighthouse, now a privately owned B&B, is my breakfast stop. At the start of my coastal walk, my bird identification skills were somewhat limited, pretty much at the robins and swans level. Jude sought to remedy that with a concise coastal bird guide for Christmas. Unfortunately, I keep forgetting to pack it. Nevertheless, I am proud now to be able to make the distinction between a common gull and a herring gull — small steps.
Birling Gap is my first access point to the beach. The cliffs erode about two feet each year, so there is a movable metal staircase which is periodically re-positioned. I sit on the beach, taking in the view. It’s deserted apart from a chap with a small child, collecting smooth stones. Smiling and praising his efforts as he toddles past, he stops and peers at me, clutching a stone.
“No!” shouts his dad.
I assume he has previous. Maybe it’s the wild beard?
The coastguard cottages look a little vulnerable. Not for the keen gardener.
Setting off again, a queue of hills awaits. Each summit offers an expanding view behind me. Bell Tout lighthouse is once more on the horizon.
Cuckmere Haven appears over the next rise and I can’t resist heading down to the beach for a bit of shingle and to explore the mouth of the river. The water is wonderfully clear and a lone canoeist appears from upstream. That is such a great way to explore the country but I have enough on my list. The path takes a detour inland to the nearest bridge crossing, passing the attractive but forlorn-looking Cuckmere Inn. Come April 12th I will do my best to help rebuild the brewing industry.
How many times has this view of the coastguard cottages been photographed by cinema lovers? One more then. My daughter, Hayley, wins the family WhatsApp challenge to name the movie.
The rain starts to fall and there are still more hills to climb. The grand sweep up Seaford Head provides the parting, finest view of the Seven Sisters. What a wonderful hike. My favourite so far, although Dungeness remains my favourite place. My glutes are starting to complain and I would doff my hat, if I was wearing one, to those hardy folk who walk the coastal path in one continuous journey. Can you doff a beanie?
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 229 miles.
Isn’t this a glorious walk. I loved it too, and those seven sisters certainly make your legs work! Cuckmere Haven was an unexpected delight.
Yes, unforgettable. I needed a winch to get me out of the car when I got home.
“I needed a winch to get me out of the car when I got home.” 🤣
I know that feeling. A couple of hours sat still in a car after the walk and you seize up entirely! I love the “before and after” pictures of the cottages. It really puts it into perspective, doesn’t it.
The next step will be sleeping overnight in the back of the Viano now that I have removed the seats, or rather my sons removed them, and then moving on to camping. If my back can cope with it!
Very inspirational Tony and I empathise totally with the aches and pains having today just completed the Sittingbourne to Faversham section of the Saxon Way. It was agony passing some very nice looking but closed pubs. Not for much longer hopefully!
Hi Marcus. I thought Faversham was very pretty. You will see the sea soon!