East Highland Way: Day 1

The East Highland Way (“EHW”) runs for 82 miles from Fort William — where it links up with the West Highland Way (“WHW”) that I hiked this time last year — to Aviemore in the Cairngorms. It’s considerably less popular than the WHW and I’m curious as to how the two trails compare.

Today is forecast for the best weather of the week, so I make the most of it, with an early start to catch the frost and ice.

The first difference to the WHW is the lack of signposts, requiring a lot more attention to my Harvey’s map. Despite this, I’ve already climbed too high up a forest road and must retrace my steps down the hill.

The North Face car park is packed with adventure company logo-covered transit vans, guiding groups of hikers up Ben Nevis. Given the clear blue sky, perhaps I should change my plans and follow them up the mountain — no, another time.

It’s a gorgeous day for hiking, shadowing the River Spean, one moment close to the sparkling rapids, the next curving away up the hillside through the trees.

One of the reasons why the EHW is less popular than the WHW is the lack of accommodation, requiring wild camping. My first pitch is on a small island.

I walk the perimeter like Crusoe, searching for an open area, safe from falling branches. Such a beautiful spot and the luxury of resting in the afternoon instead of my typical dashing round before dark. The tent faces the river in the hope of wildlife spotting.

The five-star site is fully equipped with running water, encouraging a quick dip before drying off in the warm sun. Not bad for the end of March.

I’m often asked about wild camping spots. Given their importance on this trail, I’ve included a screenshot from my OS Maps app.

Walk distance: 18 miles.

Total distance: 18 miles.

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