Day 182: Bangor to Llanfairfechan

A man leans on the railings, admiring the attractive pier. Given the early hour, we’re the only people around, so I strike up a conversation. He’s also hiking the Wales Coast Path with his wife who is sleeping in the nearby motor home. We both took early retirement after Covid and admit to being part of the “lost workforce”. Are we giving up this life to go back? Not a chance!

Crossing the pretty River Cegin, there are two herons on the bank and a couple of white geese upstream.

The geese see me standing on the bridge and swim down, waiting in vain for food.

An attractive gatehouse guards the entrance to the grounds of Penrhyn Castle.

I’d not expected the walk out of Bangor to be so pretty. The path follows an old railway track — used to transport slate from Penrhyn Quarry — along the river in Dyffryn Cegin Valley. The trees drip with overnight rain.

This area is a tangled web of trails. In addition to the Wales Coast Path, there is the North Wales Path (60 miles from Prestatyn to Bangor), the North Wales Pilgrims Trail (140 miles from Holywell to Bardsey Island) and the Snowdonia Slate Trail (an 83-mile circular route round Northern Snowdonia). I’ve decided to follow the North Wales Path today to enjoy the views above the coast and visit a special place.

Branching off the coast path, the local sheep have found the perfect spot, sheltered beneath the A55.

After crossing a pretty weir, I finally part company with the Slate Trail and head east into the hills.

Slate is a lot more durable than wood and it surrounds me: walls, steps, fences, bridges, styles and gates. One gate is so narrow and the jerry-rigged rubber restraining band so strong that I have to remove my pack and drag the gate open with both hands, before squeezing through.

Reaching the Coedydd Aber National Nature Reserve, the path turns inland with wonderful views into the Carneddau mountains.

The spectacular Aber Falls plunge down the rocks at the end of the valley.

This is why I chose the North Wales Path. Time to sit and let the thundering roar envelop me.

There’s a steady stream of visitors from the car park down the other side of the valley, so there’s an opportunity for mutual photographs.

Leaving the valley, there’s a murderous climb for over a mile up a very steep road. Whose crazy idea was this detour? Sweat runs down my back in the afternoon sun. The path leads across the hillside with fine views, despite the marching lines of pylons. I’m flagging after another climb when a sign for Llanfairfechan appears. It’s a slippery, muddy descent to the town, losing the track through the overgrown gorse several times, distracted by pregnant wild ponies.

Platt’s Farm campsite is one of the most beautiful places I’ve stayed. The old stone house has a magical walled garden with mysterious doors from a fairy tale. The perfect place to celebrate passing the 3,000-mile marker — only another 7,000 to go!

That was another hard day, making two in a row, so a change of plans for tomorrow, returning to the coast path rather than taking to the hills again. I don’t like the look of the packed contour lines on my OS map.

Walk distance: 17 miles.

Total distance: 3,013 miles.