Ten hours of sleep tells me to avoid unnecessary hill climbs and take the flat, if dull, coast path next to the railway.
Things pick up with the magnificent Conwy Castle. We came here during a Snowdonia family holiday many years ago. It’s a lot harder this time, struggling to the top of each tower, and not because I’m older. The narrow winding staircases were not built to accommodate a backpack and hiking poles. Thankfully, there’s no one coming in the opposite direction.
Skirting Conwy Sands, two safety-conscious citizens inspect the road up to the Great Orme. Perhaps they’re on the run? The Royal Welsh regiment has a tradition of recruiting their regimental mascot here. The last recruit, Fusilier Shenkin IV, evaded capture for several weeks. Smart kid.
For some inexplicable reason, I’ve followed a couple down to the sea next to the ruins of the old WW2 gunnery school, relocated from more vulnerable Essex, which means a steep climb up a goat track back to the road. So much for an easier day.
The limestone headland is spectacular. Rows of tiny white heads peep out from the cracks lining the cliffs above the road. Suddenly, a buzzard launches from the top of the hill and swoops down for a chick. The parents explode from the dark crevices like fighters from the Death Star and the buzzard veers off to the sea.
A sea fret rolls in. Llandudno has aged well since my childhood holidays here, unlike so many tired coastal towns.
Having dumped my gear at the Travelodge, there’s plenty of time to explore and grab some food at The Snowdon pub. A man sits at the next table with a small dog on a lead. His partner returns from the bar and accidentally steps on the dog’s tail, which lets out a loud yelp. She says nothing and sits down without a flicker of emotion. What sort of person does that? Given the lack of response from the man, I assume this is not a loving relationship.
There’s a happier couple on the beach. Love is sharing — he detects and she digs!
Returning to my room, am I going mad? I’m sure I left half an M&S sandwich, still in the wrapper, on the sash window sill. The window is only raised a few inches. Did a seagull steal it or did I take it with me when I explored the town? Anyway, I bought another one so put it on the ledge to stay cool.
Later, while reading, there’s a “tap-tap-tap-tap” which makes me jump. A greedy gull has turned its head to one side and is trying to pull my sandwich through the window gap with his beak. Little devil. I slam the window shut and return to my book.
“Tap-tap-tap-tap” again. The persistent bird is tapping at the glass to get the sandwich. I give up, move the sandwich out of sight and close the curtains. Life in a coastal town.
Walk distance: 17 miles.
Total distance: 3,030 miles.
I’m afraid I couldn’t get Father Jack from Father Ted out of my head when hearing or seeing the name Llanfairfechan! A lovely stretch of coast and some spectacular views. Bad luck with your sandwich but at least now you know what happened to your sandwich. I also enjoyed Llandudno a nice town as you say. I also stayed at that Travelodge, I had a room right at the top under the eaves.
As it was directly opposite the local Wetherspoons, it did get a bit lively after closing time, but I sleep through anything!