Day 184: Llandudno to Talacre

A town stirs to greet the beautiful dawn.

The sweeping Victorian promenade is warmly lit but exposed to the icy wind blowing off the Little Orme. It seems a little odd to place a statue of the Mad Hatter between two waste bins.

Llandudno was the holiday destination of the real Alice in Wonderland, Alice Liddell, the girl who inspired Lewis Carroll. There are various wooden statues of characters in the town. I prefer the mural.

The path takes the less scenic landward side of the Little Orme before opening up with sweeping views along the coast.

Penrhyn Bay does not get the chance to impress under a grey sky and a mile of concrete sea defence work. It does lead to the cute St Trillo’s Chapel, thought to be the smallest church in Britain, seating six people.

It seems I’m surrounded by concrete today so any splash of colour is welcome.

This is my longest day, but the miles fall away under easy flat promenade walking.

My childhood memories are of the huge amusement park at Rhyl, now sadly closed.

The “beginning and end” sculpture at Prestatyn — no marks for imaginative naming — marks the northern end of the 177-mile Offa’s Dyke Path.

The day ends with a beautiful beach that stretches for miles to the Point of Ayr.

This is Wales’ oldest lighthouse, built in 1776 and supposedly haunted. It was bought by a couple in 2012 for £90,000 — perhaps they’ll turn it into a holiday home.

The Point Bar is a fine place for a cold beer in the sun. Removing my pack, one of my hanging socks drying in the sun has vanished. I suspect foul play, squirrels most like.

All that remains is a final walk to Ynyshir Farm Campsite. I must remember that if a campsite mentions stunning views then it probably involves a steep climb! Arriving somewhat weary and sweaty, I meet the owner, Paul, preparing the site for peak season.

“If you’d told me you were in The Point I would have downed tools and joined you!”

I have the site to myself with commanding views over the River Dee. A welcome cool breeze will send me to sleep in no time.

Walk distance: 27 miles.

Total distance: 3,083 miles.

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