Arctic Circle Trail: Day 7

Some of my favourite hiking moments are sitting in my sleeping bag with a hot drink, watching the sun rise over a beautiful landscape. This is one of them.

A steep climb by the waterfall is rewarded with wonderful views north, although I’m not sure about the remote toilet hut perched on the ridge.

It’s a cold grey morning but dry. A couple I’ve not seen before are pitched next to a lake in the high mountain pass.

The view down the valley to Nasaasaaq mountain is spectacular, with snow still visible on the upper reaches. There are several snow banks in the pass. I can’t resist crunching my way over one.

The couple I saw earlier zoom past, with little interest in chatting — probably on a mission to get to Sisimiut for lunch. They spend some time finding a river crossing point, which I follow, although still end up with a soaking boot. Nothing new there.

With Sisimiut and the ocean in sight, I’m caught by Carlos. We chat for a while before he bounds off down a very well-worn track and is soon out of sight. Am I really that slow?

Sisimiut looks bigger than I expected, or perhaps I’m just not used to seeing so many buildings.

I leave the main road and explore dog town, with hundreds of huskies and kennels spread across the hillside. I’m not sure whether I’m supposed to come this way but keep well clear of the dogs, staying in the middle of the track. One rises and pads toward to me. I love dogs, but he looks powerful and his eyes bore into me. His tail is not wagging. I’m glad he’s on a strong chain.

Further along the road, two pups run out to greet me. I bend down to take a photo, but before I can frame it properly their mother advances from behind a hut, unchained. Oh oh. I stand up quickly and put my hands in my pockets. She growls and circles me. I keep walking and she follows until I’m well clear of her pups and then turns away, job well done. I know my place in the food chain.

Carlos and I agreed to meet up for a celebratory beer, but having wandered off the main road, I’m a little lost. There’s still no phone signal, and now I can’t remember the place he mentioned, which is a shame. After a few wrong turns, I find my accommodation — Isi4u — a hostel overlooking the harbour. It’s a lovely place, with five bedrooms and a communal bathroom, kitchen and lounge. There are panoramic views across the bay and …. an iceberg! I dump my gear and head out to explore.

The city only has a population of around 5,500, mainly Inuit inhabitants for 4,500 years, together with Danes who first settled in the region in the 1720’s. My first priority is food. Wolfing down Thai spicy seafood soup using chopsticks and a spoon, I smile recalling the hut fantasy of any meal that needed a knife and fork.

The road down to the harbour is flanked by sculptures and drawings carved into the rock cliffs.

I’ve clearly not walked far enough today. The evening light is wonderful, so I head out to a viewpoint to see the city from the ocean. It’s worth the effort.

Now for the iceberg. There are several cars and families gathering at the dock to take photographs, as it’s not common for icebergs to be seen this far south. It’s like a giant crown. I’m 61 and this is the first iceberg I’ve been close to. Where have I been?

I return to the hostel and melt in a wonderful hot shower. A quiet Danish couple are relaxing in the lounge before the arrival of a very lively Polish woman who turned her ankle on the UFO trail today. She has two German friends arriving and invites me to join them, but it’s already 9pm and I’m beat, plus I have an 8am boat to catch in the morning. The trail may be complete, but my adventure continues with an abandoned village to explore, a mountain to climb, and camping out by the glacier. I’m not ready for this to end.