Arctic Circle Trail: Days 9 & 10

31 August

Snow has fallen overnight on the high ground and rain is beating against the bedroom window. This is no day to be hiking 784m up Nasaasaaq mountain.

Strolling down to the bakery for breakfast pastries, the bitterly cold wind makes me realise how lucky I was on the trail. I hope the Fellowship members still out there are able to navigate the mountain pass safely.

Today will be a rest day — a chance to leisurely explore the small city. A hilltop viewpoint allows me a good look at the airport across the bay. A small plane lands on the short runway. It could be an interesting flight back to Kangerlussuaq tomorrow.

The top of Nasaasaaq mountain is lost in cloud.

There’s a fine view up the fjord from the bridge over the bay.

Back at the hostel, it’s reunion time as Nabil has successfully completed the wilder southern route. He heard a trail story about someone using the wrong fuel in a hut stove, resulting in flames leaping out. It turns out to be Michael.

Next to arrive and celebrate are Lisa, Terra and Jen, who took a boat from the last hut given the terrible weather and snow in the mountain pass. They also have a Michael story. At the river crossing he produced a drone to capture himself fording the river. Unfortunately, he forgot to turn it on, so he crossed back and forded it a second time!

They show me some beautiful photos of the aurora borealis taken while I was asleep in my bed — I’m gutted. There’s an 80% chance of a view tonight, so I set my alarm for midnight, but it’s too cloudy to see anything.

1 September

The day begins with a gorgeous view from my window of the sunrise over the fjord.

Frustratingly, my flight is cancelled, although no explanation is given, so I’ll see how far I can get up Nasaasaaq mountain. I’m treated to an escort through dog town.

After a steep climb up through a gully, I reach the snow line. It’s hard to see the trail, but there’s a blue circle painted on a rock face. Unfortunately, I don’t have the right gear to clamber up snow-covered rocks.

I settle for brewing up a coffee and enjoying a majestic view of the valley that I hiked down a few days ago.

Returning to the city, I bump into a Dutch guy, Pepijn, just completing the trail. Strange coincidences. We met at the very start of our respective journeys, waiting for our packs on the carousel at Kangerlussuaq airport. There’s a shortage of accommodation due to the flight cancellation and the youth hostel closing today, so we share my twin room.

Iris also arrives in the evening and we have a good chat. I love her artwork, and she kindly lets me use an image. You can see more on her website: Gallery. Let’s hope the flights resume tomorrow as I have a glacier waiting.