The island of Jura has around 200 inhabitants over 142 square miles, making it one of the most deserted places I’ve hiked. Writing in a remote house in the north, George Orwell described it as “in an extremely un-get-atable place”. […]
Days 253 & 254: Tarbert to Kinuachdrachd Read More »
On the final morning of this trip, I discuss my Oa hike with the cheerful lady serving coffee and croissants at the B&B. She took her children to the beautiful beach at Port an Eas, although the weather was rarely
Day 252: Islay to Tarbert Read More »
The Oa peninsula is home to golden eagles, soaring above tall cliffs. There’s no footpath along the coast, so the plan is to hike cross-country, linking up with farm tracks, to the American Monument and the road bisecting the headland.
Day 251: Oa peninsula Read More »
There’s a beautiful sunrise, so I nip out in my shorts, climb the small hill nearby and take a photo before preparing a bowl of raspberries and porridge from the warmth of my sleeping bag. Due to ongoing work at
Day 250: Isle of Gigha to Islay Read More »
I woke twice in the night with a bad headache, which is rare. Most likely dehydration, compounded by the beer before I fell asleep, or a lack of sugar, as I did not eat enough yesterday. A midnight KitKat and
Days 248 & 249: Machrihanish to Isle of Gigha Read More »
The bright moonlight woke me in the night before the soothing sound of the sea lulled me back to sleep. I’m refreshed, waking to the third beautiful morning in a row, ready for the most challenging day of my trip
Day 247: Southend to Machrihanish Read More »
The next two days take me round the Mull of Kintyre. I’m eager to explore the most remote part of the peninsula. Sitting on a bench by the harbour, enjoying an early morning coffee and bacon roll, passers-by are friendly
Day 246: Campbeltown to Southend Read More »
After prolonged rubbing in sodden socks yesterday, my small toe needs protective zinc tape. My stomach is much happier, treated to an exceptional silver service breakfast. How will it cope when the porridge returns? The weather is transformed. The apocalyptic
Day 245: Carradale to Campbeltown Read More »
Over the next nine days, I’m hiking round Kintyre before sailing to the tiny Isle of Gigha, my first Hebridean island and then to Islay in search of golden eagles. I’d like to follow the 100-mile Kintyre Way, zig-zagging across
Day 244: Tarbert to Carradale Read More »
It’s a glorious morning to explore a rainforest. A small group of people wait for the ferry to Portavadie. One man has a backpack, which leads to chatting on the open deck. Stuart is also walking the Cowal Way, skipping
Day 243: Glenan Wood Read More »