Cornwall

I crawl out of my tent, still half-asleep, to be immediately quizzed on my plans for the day by a tiny, golden-haired sprite. Her mother duly appears to spare me a prolonged interrogation. She is wearing a long Afghan coat. […]

This week’s plan is to hike from Penzance to St Ives over three days of increasing difficulty. The final day is rated “severe” by the SWCP association. Although my new Keen Targhee II boots seem perfect for my wide feet,

Porthleven is sleeping off a collective hangover, given how busy the pubs were last night. I pass a memorial for mariners drowned on this part of the coast, commemorating the passing of the Grylls’ Act of 1808, since when bodies

The electronic fog horn at Lizard Lighthouse, repeating every 30 seconds, failed to wake me during the night. I had the strangest dream that Dave Grohl was playing an acoustic version of “Times Like These” at the campsite. I wish.

Other hikers recommended the Fat Apples cooked breakfast, but a positive Covid test has locked them down, so no hot food until Coverack, which is about five miles along the coast. Another energy bar for breakfast then. Yum. It appears

Falmouth is the start of my first four day hike, as I need to reach the next train station at Penzance. There is a line of well travelled camper vans parked along the seafront. One is bulging with so many

A breakfast energy bar is a sad substitute for a bacon roll, but it is too early for any cafes to be open. It is a squally morning. I put my waterproof on, and the rain stops. I take it

It’s 2 am. There are voices and laughter in the dark. I freeze. Someone unzips the tent. “What are you doing!” I wake, and it takes a few seconds to realise that the zip is firmly closed. My subconscious is

After a week of hiking with the family in the Lake District, mountains are replaced by beaches, as I pass Carlyon Bay, teeming with sun-seekers. It is not far to charming Charlestown harbour, one of many Poldark filming locations. I

I wake early again, despite the comfortable campsite. I am showered, packed, and off before anyone else stirs. It is a beautiful morning and a rare chance to explore the empty lanes through Polperro. It is another blistering hot day