Argyll

We’re going on a troll hunt. Waiting for the first bus again, the same joggers pass on the promenade below. Some things change. A large man wearing bright orange overalls stands on the stony shore, screaming and shaking his fists

I normally research cross-country routes, but today I’m a slave to the machine, blindly following a path my OS app has chosen. A well-maintained cycle path winds through the woodland into the Highland Titles Nature Reserve. The lochans are beautiful

“Sorry for waking you last night. I met two Polish guys on the West Highland Way and they got me drunk.” My young roommate sheepishly pads down the hallway to the bathroom as I settle down with tea and toast

The West Highland Way (“WHW”) was my first long-distance trail. You know what they say about your first love. Given the choice between walking 13 miles along the A82 coast road to Fort William or revisiting Glen Coe and Rannoch

Catching the first bus each morning in the cold and dark is wearing, so I treat myself to a later start. Unfortunately, this means the incoming tide now blocks the An Sailean marshes, forcing me back to the road, which

“Bridge of Clachan please.” “Not jumping off it are you?” “It’s a bit cold for that!” Do I look desperate? Mind you, who in their right mind boards the first bus at 7 am in the rain? I’m the only

It’s pitch black and I’m crossing the Bridge over the Atlantic onto Seil Island, the only passenger on the first bus to Ellenabeich village and the ferry to Easdale Island. The driver will pick me up anywhere along his route

Luing is the largest of the Slate Islands — “the islands that roofed the world” — yet it is only six miles long and 1.5 miles wide. In the 1800s, over 600 people lived on the island, working in 15