Argyll

How strange. A footpath is marked on the OS map, but the OS app refuses to allow me to “snap” a route along it. This suggests a barrier, such as a collapsed bridge. I override the app and manually plot

Clouds glower over the Sound of Jura. Will I see the sun at all on this trip? Forest roads carry me north from Carsaig to Crinan. Jura vanishes into the mist. The woods are humid and damp. Moss covers all.

The Taynish National Nature Reserve is another temperate rainforest, dominated by ancient sessile oak. It’s a short walk from my hobbit hut and a fitting place to explore on a damp day. First, a breakfast bacon butty at the cafe

Father’s Day. What happened to a cooked breakfast in bed with the Sunday papers? Now it’s up at 4:30 am with a bag of porridge and a stroll on a damp beach. Last night, the rain was heavy and my

The Saturday bus service does not run until noon, so I’ve a short day, which is no bad thing as torrential rain is forecast. The campsite kindly allows me a late check-out, given the weather. I’m the only passenger, so

Soothing rain pattering on a wooden roof. I sleep well, only to be rudely woken by a crow pecking at the door, ensuring I catch the only bus to Achahoish. The driver is as chatty and cheerful as on every

“Ten minutes to stretch your legs.” The bus from Glasgow to Tarbert pauses at charming Inveraray, basking in sunshine on the western shore of Loch Fyne. Several people remain in their seats. I make the most of the sun as

The Isle of Kerrera is only 4.7 square miles. It’s a short walk from Oban to join the queue for the 12-passenger ferry, just squeezing into the second group before a woman appears at the last moment to join her

We’re going on a troll hunt. Waiting for the first bus again, the same joggers pass on the promenade below. Some things change. A large man wearing bright orange overalls stands on the stony shore, screaming and shaking his fists