Tom, who looks after the Dale Fort infrastructure, gives me a chilly early morning tour of the grounds, with sweeping views across the sea. Apparently the photographer and coastal walker, Quintin Lake, also stayed here. I’ve long admired his breathtaking photos: The Perimeter.
The cloud is heavy, but it’s dry, and I’ll gladly take that after yesterday. There are badger tracks in the soft mud. I keep hoping to see one at night.
The West Blockhouse Victorian fort protects the entrance to Milford Haven; now a holiday home.
It’s a lovely, peaceful morning walk round the headland; no sounds of traffic, just the waves and the birds.
St Anne’s Head old lighthouse is now another holiday home.
Westdale Bay is a gorgeous riot of green and pink, due to the sandstone. A couple of surfers are searching vainly for waves in the light breeze.
I reach a bench with a panoramic view over the wonderful Marloes Sands. Time to climb down and explore the rocks and beach.
A photographer, Peter Tomlinson, is taking shots on the beach. He kindly agrees to take one of me, asking me to stand still for a minute, using an infrared filter. The result is a rather haunting, spectral image, as if I will be washed away with the incoming tide. I love it.
I make a two mile detour inland for lunch at the Lobster Pot Inn. To my dismay, it’s closed, despite checking yesterday. As I peer in, nose pressed against the window, the landlord appears and apologises; “the chef is at the dentist”. Do you need a chef to serve beer and nuts? Returning to the coast, the landscape soon washes away my disappointment.
Approaching Wooltack Point, I’m surrounded by sea and islands, stretching to the horizon. I feel tiny; on the edge of the world. There is a lone figure, standing at the edge of the next point, so I head round.
This is as close as I can get to Skomer Island. Sadly, I am too early for the puffins. The water is treacherous, with roiling currents in the strait. The chap I spotted earlier is sitting with a pair of binoculars. A boat goes past, taking the wardens out to the island. He knows them by name, having recently spent two weeks on the island; lucky man.
I finally reach St Brides. Someone suggested camping behind the church, on the outer side of the graveyard wall. That’s all very well from someone who is not sleeping out here in the dark, alone. I’ll pass on that idea.
A nearby, deserted scout camp is a more relaxing spot, where I pitch in the shelter of a high stone wall.
All I have is a noisy owl for company. A perfect spot to end the day.
Walk distance: 16 miles.
Total distance: 1,552 miles.
I wake to the sound of rain patter on the tent. I have a challenging 21 mile walk planned today. The early morning scenery is stunning: towering cliffs, sea stacks, and jagged rocks protruding out into the ocean. I watch a couple of seals. However, the rain and mist is relentless, so I decide to call it a day at Broad Haven and head home a day early. This coastline deserves better weather, where I can linger, rather than peer out from under my waterproof hood.
My bus is not due for an hour, so I nip into the Galleon Inn for a cooked breakfast. Relaxing with a coffee, I see another hiker arrive in the rain at the bus stop. I can either stay inside, dry and warm, until the bus arrives, or go and keep him company; I head out. Chris has made the same decision as me, stopping a day early. We get on really well, chatting on the bus and train to Swansea. He worked as a volunteer warden on Flat Holm for six months, which is fascinating, so I pepper the poor guy with questions. I watched that island for days as I worked round the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary.
The plan is to start Scotland next, until the midges arrive, and then return to Pembrokeshire for what will hopefully be a glorious summer!
Walk distance: 5 miles.
Total distance: 1,557 miles.
Hi Tony, you did’nt miss much food-wise at The Lobster Pot. Are you going to leap-frog to Gretna then?
Hi Alan. That makes me feel better. I was a bit hungry though! I want to be able to walk all year round so my plans have evolved again. To avoid the midge season in Scotland, and mitigate the worst of the winter weather, my broad plan is to walk through Wales and England in summer and winter, and round Scotland in spring and autumn. At least that’s the theory. 🙂
Lovely write up Tony! Skomer Island and indeed Flat Holm island are certainly worth a visit. Maybe something for your next visit. I have been lucky to go to Skomer a couple of times when the puffins were there, it’s a wonderful place.
I do agree with your decision to stop. I’ve had to take a few “days off” due to bad weather. Sometimes I do press on, but it’s never anything as enjoyable in pouring rain and wind as it is on a calm sunny day.
Looking forward to hearing about your walks in Scotland and curious as to where you will start from!
Thanks Jon. I am very jealous of your Skormer visits. I need to keep a note of places to go back to at the right time.
I am planning to start from Carlisle and work up the West coast, which will take me a few years, as I want to cover as many islands as possible. I am enjoying reading everyone’s blogs to prepare me for the challenges of Scotland! 🙂
Hi Tony,
It’s Chris, whom you met at the bus stop. It was great to meet you and really interesting finding out about you and your adventure during our long chat while we headed home. I was more than happy to talk about my time on Flat Holm, it is an amazing place to stay and live; you should definitely visit it at some point.
I am enjoying your blog immensely. You’ve inspired me to do my own tour of the Wales coast path, although I will have to wait for the blisters on my toes to heal! (Yes, I still have them after 2 weeks!)
Keep up the good work and good luck with the rest of the trek.
Hey Chris, great to hear from you. Maybe I will see you on the coastal path at some point, this time in nicer weather. Good luck with your tour.