Day 104: Burnham-on-Crouch to Southminster

My first walk since recovering from Covid, albeit with only mild cold symptoms. The weather forecast is not great, but I need to test out my new Meindl Terlan boots on a long hike before risking them on the 96 mile West Highland Way, starting on Monday. I’ve planned this for a while, being after the worst of winter (in theory), but before the midges and crowds arrive.

Although the sun is shining, an icy wind is blowing along the River Crouch. The flat landscape offers no shelter.

Apart from a lone fisherman, standing still on top of a pillbox — who I mistook for a statue, silhouetted against the sky — there is not another soul for the next 13 miles. There are sweeping views from the top of the grassy embankment, but I descend now and then to the lee, to reduce the wind chill.

The Dengie Peninsula is bounded by the River Crouch to the south, the River Blackwater to the north, and the North Sea to the east. It’s a desolate place, amplified by the wild weather, which hits me full on as I turn and head north along the concrete sea wall.

The dark clouds arrive. My hands are so cold that I struggle to get my waterproof trousers and backpack cover on. The wind is not helping. I manage just as the rain arrives, quickly followed by snow. I take a hasty photograph and then it’s head down into the elements. I soon look like a snowman; the snow and sleet clinging to my waterproof jacket.

Structures need to be strong to survive the elements out here. Some do not.

The highlight of walk is the Saxon Chapel of St Peter-on-the-Wall, built by St Cedd, a monk travelling down from Lindisfarne in 654.

The heavy door swings shut behind me; a sanctuary from the wind howling outside. I sit, leaning against the cold stone wall and have lunch, taking in my surroundings. The light and the simplicity of the chapel are beautiful.

I’m wet and cooling down, so need to get on the move again. I sign the visitors book and reluctantly step outside.

I follow the St Peter’s Way pilgrimage route for several miles inland before turning south to Southminster, the end of the train line. The snow returns in fitful gusts, but thankfully it’s at my back now.

I’m slow by the time I reach the train station and chilled through. I must remember to bring my camping stove for a hot drink, even on a day hike. I’m tired and not sure if this is due to the weather, still recovering from Covid, or the four pints of beer and a curry last night with my good friend, Mike Ward. I suspect the latter! There is no greater pleasure than taking my boots off and resting my wet feet on the narrow radiator by the carriage window. The warmth floods through them.

Walk distance: 23 miles.

Total distance: 1,602 miles.