Day 106: Maldon to Salcott

Public transport is a little tricky today, as I need to complete the 27 miles to Salcott before the last bus leaves for Colchester and the train home. I’m encouraged by the fine weather, donning shorts for the first time this year. Hopefully my white legs won’t startle the birds.

On leaving Maldon, I’m surprised to find a board that precisely covers my planned hike, but this section only opened last year, so that makes sense. Mudflats, salt marshes, and bird sanctuaries. Rather like North Kent.

There’s a pretty lock to cross at Heybridge Basin. It reminds me of a crazy sixth-form post-exams narrowboat trip. No-one had a clue about manoeuvring in locks. Dropping a level, the boat rammed the gates, with us frantically in reverse, smoke pouring from the engine, which needed to be replaced. Rising a level, water cascaded into the front of the boat through the opening gates. I’m surprised we stayed afloat.

The low tide reveals the winding causeway to Osea island. The signs say no public access. I assume it’s a nature reserve but subsequently discover that it’s a hidden bolt hole for celebrities. I don’t imagine they walk across the causeway.

There is little to break up the flat landscape. The tiniest movements catch my eye. A fox zig-zags across a field, chased by a ram. Little egrets launch from narrow waterways, unfurling their brilliant white wings, before gracefully landing a short distance away. A pair of canada geese, trailed by their whistling goslings, disappear into the reeds.

The towers of the decommissioned Bradwell nuclear power station are my sole reference point on the passing miles, looming ever larger as I round Tollesbury Wick Marshes.

Lightvessel 15, retired in 1988, adds a splash of colour at Tollesbury Marina. It reminds me of my first day at Gravesend. 

Approaching Old Hall Marshes, I’m tiring in the heat and can’t face another four mile loop round marshes. Time for the one mile shortcut directly across to Salcott Channel.

I pass through Salcott to reach the bus stop on the B 1026 and lie down, with my head resting on my backpack; it’s 45 minutes until the next bus. The ride into Colchester gives me a good view of the road, which other coastal hikers have referred to as a nightmare. I can see why; it’s busy, the cars are fast, there are no verges in places. I’m skipping this when I return to Essex, restarting at Colchester.

The Salcott to Jaywick section of the England Coast Path remains to be completed, although approved last year. I’ll return when it’s open, including the Old Hall Marshes. There is plenty of more enjoyable, and safer, coastline to explore for a few years. Talking of which, Gretna Green beckons on Sunday.

Walk distance: 24 miles.

Total distance: 1,640 miles.