Criffel hill dominates the landscape. I pick my way down to the sea, clutching a hot coffee in the chill dawn, to watch the sunrise.
There’s a lot of road walking today in order to cross Lochar Water stream. The roads are very quiet though; no need for verge hopping. I pass the Brow Well, where Robert Burns bathed in the iron rich water, shortly before his death in 1796. The words from his poem “A Prayer in the Prospect of Death” are engraved in the stones.
It’s a long walk. Approaching the stream crossing at Bankend, I start to fantasize about what I might find in the village. A cafe serving tea and cake? Unlikely. How about a corner shop selling magnums? Too small. Perhaps just a bench to sit on then? Getting desperate. A flat patch of grass will do. It delivers the minimum; I sit down by the bridge, lean against my backpack, and start on the mars bar rations.
Energy restored, I soon reach the triangular Caerlaverock castle, first built in the 13th century. Unfortunately, in common with many national heritage sites across Scotland, there is no access to the castle due to ongoing health and safety restoration work. I do have free access to the grounds and enjoy a long chat with the site staff over a coffee. I fear a lot of my photographs of old Scottish buildings are either going to be at strange angles or displaying scaffolding. Regardless, the castle is wonderful, full of character and worth two circuits of the moat.
After another short road section to Glencaple, I take a core path along the bank of the River Nith, which should see me through to Dumfries. The track is a joy after all the road walking; the grass soft and springy underfoot, with wooden bridges over every water channel.
It was too good to last. Just after Kelton, having crossed a footbridge, I reach a ramshackle set of three narrow wooden beams, with a void between them. This can’t be the right way. I backtrack to the footbridge and follow another track off to the right. Unfortunately, it just leads me back to the road. My first dead end in Scotland, and I’m sure it won’t be the last.
I return to the river path at Kingholm Quay and walk in the end-of-day gloom to Dumfries.
The Cavens Arms helps me replenish my lost calories, with steak and chips, apple crumble, and a light golden pint of Fyne Jarl. I smile at a group of farmers discussing tax planning and the need to “choose an advisor that sails close to the wind.”
Walk distance: 20 miles.
Total distance: 1,679 miles.
Hi Tony, send an email to one of my email addresses, so we can exchange mobs etc.. cheers Alan
alis_pal@hotmail.co.uk
Skirted round Caerlaverock too. It is very frustrating at the moment with so many Historic Scotland properties being closed. Makes me wonder, if they’re that dangerous, what risks must I have been taking in previous years? Maybe I’ve had a lucky escape from masonry falling on my head!
It’s a shame and looks like lasting a long time. I assume there was an incident somewhere which triggered this and they are probably worried about being sued.
I was thinking the same thing in Kirkcudbright the other day and wondered if and when we’ll see the castle without scaffolding on it.