An early drive to Rye in the dark — with thanks to Google Maps for diverting me down narrow country lanes — finds me waiting anxiously for the first bus to The Pilot Inn, my jumping-off point to walk back into Dungeness. I’m not encouraged by the indicator board showing the next bus to be an hour away, and it’s not the one I want.
My faith is restored when an empty bus arrives on time. I tell the driver I’m not sure I’ll be able to recognize my stop in the dark.
“You can’t miss the lights from the power station.”
Well, yes, there is that.
Retracing my steps through Dungeness from last week, the sunrise is repainting the landscape.
Do I linger to take photographs or push on to the best viewing spot before the sun comes up? Just a few more.
Made it just in time.
The howling wind is whipping up the sea and the loud crashing of waves on the deserted shingle fills my ears as the sun breaks through the clouds. Stunning. I stay here for quite some time. How can the rest of the walk better this?
Following the shoreline beneath the power station, hundreds of gulls rise and fall between the foaming waves.
There’s little to break up the endless shingle beach, so I take the opportunity to explore a new shape.
Approaching the forbidding beach security control tower for the Lydd firing range I am surprised to see two men in high vis jackets descend the steps and stand on a black stone wall jutting out into the sea, enjoying the waves breaking over them, clearly as excited as I am. A young girl comes running out, laughing, to join them, before they return to the tower. Not quite so forbidding any more.
Fortunately, the firing range is closed today so I can walk the four-mile stretch of shingle rather than take a less scenic detour inland. Although that might be easier on the legs! It is not long before I need a break. Sitting on the remains of a large concrete pipe for a coffee and delicious mince pie baked last night by my daughter, Hayley, all I can see is an empty beach in both directions. A noise on the shingle. Two men on the top of the bank look in my direction and I scramble up to find out what brings them out here. They are debating fishing and we express our mutual doubt given the weather (what do I know about fishing?). They are undaunted. As am I.
A splash of colour among the beige and brown catches my eye.
Walking on sloped shingle is wearying. As the firing range is closed, perhaps there is firmer ground to walk on. Wrong, just more shingle. This rail track is interesting though. Lydd was one of the main testing sites for anti-tank defences. The first attempts to provide targets consisted of tank silhouettes pulled behind trucks. The wind caused havoc so the track was built to transport heavier targets.
On leaving MOD property and, thankfully, the shingle, a long concrete seawall makes the going a little easier. I join a couple of environmental agency workers who are having great fun on one of the ramps down into the water. There is a sign “Caution Extreme Sports Zone – Bathe at your own risk.” No kidding. There are not many kitesurfers out today.
Camber Sands is a beautiful setting for a quick lunch, although the wind is still blowing hard and the last bite of my roll is a little … gritty. I have fond memories of coming here with my sons on rugby club tours. I might still have that Brian May wig somewhere in the house.
The dunes lead to the mouth of the River Rother, the end of the East Pier submerged and the West Pier in the distance to be covered on the next walk.
The bank of the river guides me into Rye, following for a short time the old tramway from the town to Camber Sands.
Rye is the prettiest town I have visited so far and warrants a return trip in warmer and more sociable times. I have plenty of time for once so enjoy strolling round the beautiful streets. It makes a nice change to reach the car in daylight for the journey home rather than the usual fumbling around for my keys in the dark.
Walk distance: 13 miles.
Total distance: 172 miles.
Tony, You are very eloquent in your descriptions and emotions. Do you write them down at the time or draw from memory after the event?
Did you watch the Paul O’Grady series on Kent recently? He has similar enthusiasm and eloquence.
Thanks Phil. After the event, thankfully my memory can just about cope with a couple of days! I had not watched the O’Grady series but just viewed the Dungeness episode. He is excellent, very dry sense of humour, and has much better quotes than me! I loved the Enid Blyton reference to cyclists.
An interesting tale of what sounds like an exciting day. Waiting for country buses is always a nerve wracking experience. I well remember the one in Cornwall where the timetable had changed the day before; but not yet the published version.
I will make sure I build in some contingency then when I get to Cornwall!
Memories from childhood when granny lived in Winchelsea and we visited Camber Sands etc. Thanks. Have you seen The Old Way on The British Pilgrimage Trust website?
Hi Tamsin. That is another interesting long distance trail. So many places to see.