Day 112: Rockcliffe to Balcary Point

A cold night, waking to frosted grass and a clear blue sky. I’m packed and off by 7am as I have 27 miles to cover if I want to walk to the end of all three peninsulas in Auchencairn Bay and Rough Firth. I’m not sure if this is possible given that some of the paths are not too clear. I also need to find a wild camping spot at the end of the day.

The riverside walk to Kippford passes through pretty woodland, giving a fine view of the causeway to Rough Island.

I cross the A710 into Dalbeattie Forest, which is a lovely change of atmosphere, climbing a winding track through the tall pine trees to enjoy panoramic views.

There’s an unavoidable road section round the outskirts of Dalbeattie and down to Palnackie. It’s scenic but tricky, with some tight bends and a few wide farm vehicles.

I explore the small harbour in Palnackie. Having taken a few pictures, a young couple with a terrier walk down the street, laden with groceries, and step onto the small boat, clearly their home.

The Flounders community cafe serves delicious quiche, and I load up with three litres of water for cooking, drinking and washing over the next 24 hours, as I’m not confident about places to refill. My pack is noticeably heavier and the day is getting hotter.

Glen Isle is the first peninsula, with a pretty woodland trail. Apart from a short there-and-back section to get to the end point overlooking the bay, there’s a circular route past the wooden holiday homes nestled among the trees.

A core path heads across the marsh to Almorness. I’ll bring a cricket box next time for protection against electric fences. It’s a pleasant walk across the short grass and through the reeds. The blue water sparkles in the bay. A heron launches from the reeds only feet away.

The woodland path up the next hill is more of an assault course due the number of fallen trees, to either climb over or crawl under, my backpack catching on the bark. I’m breathing heavily on reaching reach a shady resting spot

Passing Almorness House, the path joins a track which takes me all the way to the gorgeous, secluded White Port beach. It feels like a long way. A couple following me earlier have given up and turned back. Time to cool my feet in the sea, which is freezing.

I retrace my steps and take a quiet lane back to the A7111, with magnificent views.

Orchardton Tower is, of course, fenced off for health and safety reasons.

Back on the main road, I reach the turn-off for Torr Point. It’s already late afternoon; I’m hot and tired. I still have a long way to go so reluctantly decide to skip the final peninsula.

A car toots from behind and pulls up on the other side of the road, the driver winding down his window and opening his door slightly.

“I thought you were on crutches.”

Blimey, do I look that weary?

“Are you from London?”

“How much were your poles?”

It’s a slightly odd conversation. He has long greasy hair and is rocking in his seat as he talks. I don’t have a good feeling so abruptly shut down the conversation and walk on. He does a U-turn and drives off the other way.

In Auchencairn, there’s a poster advertising a commune. As I don’t have a place to sleep yet, I check it out. Unfortunately, there’s no reply when I knock at the door, so I head on down the narrow tree-lined road that hugs the bay.

On reaching Balcary Hill, I pass and greet a farmer and his sheepdog. I’m already concerned that he knows I’m planning to camp nearby but remind myself that this is Scotland not England.

I find the most amazing spot, sheltered in a small depression on the cliffs. What a wonderful place to enjoy my last night. I fall asleep gazing out at the sea and the birds swooping across the water.