Fishguard is dark and quiet. The Co-op is open for coffee and a croissant.
“You can’t camp in here mate!”
Too early for morning wit.
At the bus stop, several women are queueing for a special “Les Miserables” coach to Cardiff. Wonderful musical.
It’s still before dawn when I arrive at Newport, climbing up to towering cliffs. It’s a shame they are always in the shadow in the morning.
The wind is strong again, giving me my first experience of walking through an upward-flowing waterfall. You’d be unpleasantly surprised by the volume of water that falls on you in a few seconds compared to rain.
The wonderful Witches’ Cauldron at Pwll-y-Wrach is a blow-hole caused by the collapse of a cave roof. It’s possible to kayak under the arch. Thankfully the wind has dropped a little for the narrow ridge walk.
The cliff-top path is incredibly muddy, churned up by the wild ponies I guess; a price worth paying for their spirit-lifting company.
The geology at Pen yr Afr is spectacular. The cliffs are made up of thin layers of sandstone alternating with mudstone, compressed by the collision of two continents 400 million years ago to create the wonderful folds.
The wind gusts are too strong on the final approach to Cemaes Head. With a narrow exposed path and a sheer cliff, I cut across inland.
It’s a wild and magnificent end to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It is definitely up there with the South West Coast Path. They ought to put the end marker on the headland, rather than at the end of a rather dull two-mile road walk to St Dogmaels.
I catch another bus for the long journey north to Aberystwyth, where I’m staying at the University Bunkhouse for the next six nights, being quite separate from the halls of residence. Unfortunately, it’s also at the top of a long hill, so I’m weary on finally reaching the warmth. This is perfect with a comfy bedroom and shared facilities. It’s like the first day at Uni all over again as I introduce myself to Prasanth in the kitchen, who is waiting to start his MBA.
The rooms are secured with swipe cards and I blame tiredness for trying to swipe into the wrong room after a meal in the kitchen. Holly, a mum staying to support her student daughter for a few weeks, pops her head out and I apologise. I clearly need my bed.
Walk distance: 16 miles.
Total distance: 2,537 miles.
Great photos Tony, particularly of the folds in the cliffs. Can’t recall that part of the walk , other than the long slog up the road from St. Dogmaels. Mind you, I did the Pembrokshire Coast path in the opposite direction. All the best. Mike
Thanks Mike. I would not have fancied walking into the prevailing SW wind for the entire path. My hat would be floating in the Irish Sea by now. 🙂
Beautiful cliffs – not so keen on the waterfall!
The first of several. I’m not used to putting my waterproofs on for waterfalls. 🙂
😂😊🤗
Tony, well done on completing Pembrokeshire! As usual, spectacular photos of the scenery and your interesting observations along the way make for an enjoyable read. We reached Fishguard in September but not due back until March to finish Pembrokeshire. All the best on the Ceredigion Path!
Thanks Rich. I look forward to seeing the path through your eyes.