Day 163: Borth to Machynlleth

Who could resist staying in a hostel named Toad Hall? It’s quirky and charming, with engaging hosts Louise and Will, accompanied by Bramble, an affectionate tabby.

I’ve spent most of the day on trains to Machynlleth, a pretty market town in a valley on the southern edge of Snowdonia — I’m working hard on my pronunciation. A little daylight remains to explore streets wreathed in clinging, damp mist, peering in the windows of book shops before wandering round The Museum of Modern Art.

Jess, a young American backpacker, is also staying at the hostel, supporting herself by playing the piano in local bars, hopefully in better condition than this one. I can’t help looking at his jacket pocket without thinking of The Last of Us.

Next day

Rain is forecast and down it comes. Stepping off the train at Borth and heading down to the beach, the ancient submerged forest remains stubbornly submerged. The huge dunes at Ynslas mark the completion of the Ceredigion Coast Path, with Snowdonia, so near across the estuary, hidden in the low cloud.

The path loops back to Borth village, passing through a vast bog. Despite the long walk ahead, I’m drawn off the track by the towers of St. Matthew’s Church, looming out of the mist, sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the wetland. Sadly, the church is locked — no sanctuary here then.

A kestrel perched on a metal gate studies my approach before lifting off. The bog stretches into the distance.

The Cletwr community cafe in Tre’r-ddol is the perfect place to stop for hot soup and dry out a little.

After lunch, the path changes completely, heading up into the hills, far from the sea. The tree branches drip with the recent rain and everything is coated with luminous, silencing moss.

There are reports of hikers losing their way on this section, which is strange — the path does career wildly in all directions, often cutting back on itself — but is well signposted. The trees are hauntingly beautiful, bare branches against a backdrop of purple birches.

The path is well maintained, with several wooden bridges crossing rain-swollen streams.

Emerging from the woods onto the hillside, there’s a wonderful stretch of open moorland with views all round, despite the heavy cloud.

I’ve lost count of the number of valleys, but each one is painted in vivid winter colours, brought out by the rain.

There’s a long climb out of Llyfnant Valley, always tiring at the end of the day, although the view is worth the effort.

One more climb and the welcome lights of Machynlleth glow in the darkening valley below. It’s been a tiring walk, harder than I expected, but gorgeous despite the weather. It makes a nice change to roam the hills. Hopefully, Bramble is waiting to greet me when I return to the hostel.

Walk distance: 21 miles.

Total distance: 2,619 miles.