Day 212: Sunderland to Whitley Bay

Crossing the River Wear, Shadows In Another Light is framed against a gorgeous blue sky. It’s constructed from the parts of a crane that stood in the same location.

There are several sculptures to enjoy on the path to the sea — transformed overnight — shimmering against Roker Pier and lighthouse. The pier contains a tunnel, open for guided tours, that allowed the keeper to reach the lighthouse in bad weather.

Closing in on Northumberland, I’m looking forward to catching up with family and friends. Souter Lighthouse is the rendezvous point with Viv and her brother Peter. I’m ahead of schedule, and the cafe is unexpectedly closed, so I shelter from the rain under a wooden gazebo. What happened to the early blue skies?

I don’t have to wait long before an excitable Milly, Viv’s dog, appears. I’m sealed inside three layers, including full waterproofs. Peter is not — brave chap. Then again, he’s a hardened northerner and I’ve been living down south for too long. He does concede to put on an extra t-shirt, although I’m not sure Viv approves of him stripping down naked to change.

The weather worsens, with freezing horizontal wind and rain. Milly is not happy and Viv sensibly takes her back to the car. Peter and I, with less sense, push on along the clifftop to Marsden Rock. The rock looks smaller than I remember as a child, but then most things do. I’d normally head down to explore, but it’s far too cold and wet to linger. Is Peter regretting this?

Herd Groyne Lighthouse, built in 1882, helps ships navigate the entrance to the River Tyne.    

A crazy collection of 22 bronze figures form the Conversation Piece by Juan Muñoz. They are referred to locally as the “Weebles”, for those of us old enough to remember those toys.

We pick up the pace to catch the ferry, although a reflection catches my eye.

Great timing. We make it just as the ferry is leaving. Time for mutual photos.

Note the difference in gear.

Crossing the Tyne triggers thoughts of “Fog on the Tyne” and the magical Lindisfarne Christmas concerts. I was 17 when I attended my first one in 1978. What a great year: Grease, Halloween, “Teenage Kicks” played endlessly by John Peel and Black Sabbath supported by Van Halen at the City Hall. Maybe gloss over the hairstyles.

Walking into North Shields, Fiddlers Green, another metal sculpture by Ray Lonsdale, depicts a thoughtful fisherman gazing out to sea. Fiddler’s Green is an after-life in maritime folklore where rum hangs from trees, a fiddle never stops playing and dancers never tire — sounds fun.

Tynemouth Castle dominates the headland.

How many times did I play in the amusements in the Spanish City at Whitley Bay? What a transformation. It glitters in the dark. Peter shows me the lyrics from “Tunnel of Love” by Dire Straits, carved into the pavement:

And, girl it looks so pretty to me
Like it always did
Like the Spanish city to me

The central domed area is now the classiest fish and chips restaurant I’ve eaten in, complete with a piano player. We are joined by my sister, Judith, and Peter’s wife, Judy. Good food, a fine bottle of red wine and great company. A perfect way to end the day.

Walk distance: 15 miles.

Total distance: 3,608 miles.