Day 218: Embleton to Bamburgh

Sitting in bed with a cuppa, the rain hammers against the window. There’s a yellow weather warning and I’m definitely not 100%, so I’m cutting today’s walk early at Bamburgh.

The Beadnell Lime Kilns offer temporary shelter. Built in 1798, to produce lime fertilizer for nearby fields, they now support lobster fishing.

The harbour is deserted.

A lovely beach links Beadnell with Seahouses. Only one other person is out in the foul weather, a woman walking two border collies. You have to admire their boundless enthusiasm for chasing a ball regardless of the wind and rain.

Sadly, there are no boat trips to land at the Farne Islands due to Avian Flu. Fishermen are still unloading their catch despite the bitter weather — a tough life.

The weather can’t ruin the wonderful beach and dunes stretching up to Bamburgh.

I’m warm and dry under four layers. To my shame, a young woman bounds past, wearing only a t-shirt, shorts and gloves. The back of her legs glow bright red.

I’m determined to approach the castle from the beach, although I can barely see it through the rain.

As usual, I lose my way through the rolling dunes, although to be fair the lake has flooded the path in several places, forcing me to backtrack and work round the deep water.

Passing beneath the castle walls, a few lights visible within, it’s a relief to tumble into the smart Lord Crewe for a warm fire and a pint of Alnwick pale ale. The bus stop is right outside, allowing me to hunker down until the bus to Berwick-upon-Tweed arrives, home for the next four nights.

Walk distance: 12 miles.

Total distance: 3,702 miles.