The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is accessible for seven hours before the North Sea tide surrounds it. Constrained by bus and tide times, I’ve only five hours to cross, explore the island and return to the mainland. The causeway is free of traffic at this early hour.
In my childhood, we always crossed via the causeway. Today, marker poles guide me on the three-mile Pilgrim’s Way across the wet sand and mud. Since 635, when King Oswald gave the island to St. Aidan to establish his monastery, the island has been a place of pilgrimage.
The path is perfectly safe, although I still use my poles to test the sand — a habit now. The water swirls round the top of my boots, but my feet stay dry. The worst section is the middle salt marsh, where I’m in danger of losing a boot to the sucking mud, forcing me to move away from the line of marker poles.
Two wooden towers provide refuge for those caught out by the tide.
As I reach the end of my pilgrim’s journey, the sun breaks through the clouds — a fine omen.
Looking back toward the mainland, the path appears more benign in the sunlight.
Strange birds inhabit flooded fields on the island.
The 16th-century castle commands the approach to the small harbour.
The ruins of the 12th-century priory sit on the site of the original monastery, itself subject to a devastating raid by Vikings in 793.
There’s just enough time for coffee and a bacon roll before heading back.
The causeway refuge box still offers sanctuary.
In 2022, a group of six people, including three children and a dog, were rescued from the shelter by the coastguard after abandoning their car.
The hut is tiny, so it must have been a squeeze.
On reaching the mainland, I sit on a rock and watch the tide come in. A chap sweeps the nearby field with a metal detector and we get to chatting. The field is the car park for the Lindisfarne festival. Today he’s found £50 in coins, various items of jewellery and hundreds of ring pulls. He explains the tide timetable is deliberately conservative and locals use a particular rock in the bay as a guide. If the rock is visible then there’s time to cross.
It’s a beautiful end to the day, so I get off the bus to Berwick and walk across the River Tweed.
Hundreds of pigeons sit below the bridge and rise each time I lean out to take a photograph.
Berwick is wonderful for exploring battlements, alleys and passageways, following the Lowry Trail. L S Lowry (1887 – 1976) was a frequent visitor to the town and the trail showcases several of his paintings. It’s fun to compare each painting with the scene as it is today, often unchanged.
The Curfew micropub is delightful, tucked away in a cobbled alley. Enjoying a pint of Time & Tide, I chat with a couple who visit Lindisfarne regularly. There are deer on the island, which is news to me. A few young guys at the bar discuss the Two Gallon Challenge which takes place on the 16th — 16 pints in various pubs. I’ll pass.
Walk distance: 13 miles.
Total distance: 3,715 miles.
Oooh lovely, such a magical place, wish I could have stayed there
It would be a wonderful place to camp overnight — if it was allowed.
One of my favourite places for a day trip. However, I have never been brave enough to tackle the walk over and always take the car. I then can enjoy the beautiful walk around the island keeping a check on the timings for getting back across, of course.
Happy New Year! You are so lucky to have the island on your doorstep. I’ll have to go back to walk the entire coastline.
Hi Tony, We walked the Pilgrim route across to Lindisfarne back in May 2021. We stayed in a B & B on the island and explored the island the following day. It’s a magical place & even more so, once all the day trippers have left the island in the late afternoon. Cheers & HNY Mike
It’s a great feeling when you are halfway across with just the bay all round you. I like the sound of being able to wander round in the evening. Happy New Year to you too!
We stayed on Holy Island at the end of our walking of the St Cuthbert’s Way. After the tourists leave at the end of each day, the place seems to take on a different- much calmer atmosphere. A delight. The following day, we walked from Lindisfarne along the coast to Berwick. To be recommended.
Hi David. I can imagine it’s quite beautiful and mystical in the evening. I walked along the coast the following day, which will be in my last post for the year.
Love both these places. Happy New Year!
I was sure you would know them well. I visited both places several times in my childhood, but it’s a different experience now. Happy New Year!
Lindisfarne is a magic place, visited many times when I lived in the NE. My last time was at the end of the St. Cuthbert’s Way trail, maybe 10 years ago.
Mind you the island and its castle have never been the same for me since watching ‘Cul-de-sac’, a Polanski psychological thriller. Worth a watch if you can catch it somewhere.
Perhaps another trail to add to my ever-growing list. I’ve seen most of Polanski’s movies and it’s a long time since I watched that one. The image of Donald Pleasence in a nightdress shatters the magic of the island! 😬
Yes he certainly played the part.
Some more wonderful photos Tony and I’m glad you made it over to the island, as it was certainly a highlight for me. I did also visit the castle (I remember the NT warden offering to hold onto my bag for me whilst I went round the castle and being horrified at it’s weight!). I did make an unofficial crossing over though on my first visit, not using the proper causeway which was not a good idea (though I didn’t know it at the time). The bus timetable is interesting there with the bus times having to vary with the tide times, of course.
I enjoyed Berwick upon Tweed, too, a lovely town.
Thanks Jon. I wish I’d had more time to visit the castle. I did not know that buses crossed the causeway.
I’ve been looking at your blog in preparation for my next trip later this month, from Berwick northwards. I will be trying that small bridge in the Tyninghame estate.