After prolonged rubbing in sodden socks yesterday, my small toe needs protective zinc tape. My stomach is much happier, treated to an exceptional silver service breakfast. How will it cope when the porridge returns?
The weather is transformed. The apocalyptic deluge of yesterday replaced with calm blue skies — a day for leisurely exploration. Sure enough, I’ve barely left the village before venturing off the road into a pretty wood, lured by the sound of a waterfall.
The woodland path rejoins the road opposite the village hall. A line of men bend their backs in preparation for raising a long wall of a marquee, presumably for the village fete over the weekend.
“One, two … hold on!”
“That’s not how it goes!”
They seem to be enjoying the morning sun or perhaps the ale tasting started early.
The OS map shows stepping stones across Carradale Water, but they are underwater given the recent rain. The longer walk to the bridge is beautiful, lined with interesting trees and rock formations. What a gorgeous morning, comfortable in only my base layer.
The path runs in front of a small row of cottages, with the most amazing views across Carradale Bay to the mountains of Arran.
There’s a fabulous wild camping spot beyond the last house. Taking in the view, three locals join me on the beach.
“This is one of the most beautiful spots I’ve found.”
“Yes, it’s not well known. You’re lucky to see it in this weather.”
“I’ve earned it after hiking from Tarbert yesterday!”
Fortunately, the sea is out, so I pick my way across the low tide route.
Stunning Torrisdale Bay is the last beach before following the road inland. Yesterday, grim-faced, I wondered why I put myself through such physical and mental challenges — this is why.
The long road walk is pleasant, with fine views of Arran and my old friend Ailsa Craig, shimmering on the horizon. The number 445 bus passes me several times and the driver waves each time. We are becoming good friends.
The 12th-century Saddell Abbey warrants a visit.
The abbey has a collection of life-sized stone carvings and burial slabs.
There’s another reason why I chose to follow the coast road rather than the Kintyre Way inland. It waits in Saddell Bay.
Antony Gormley’s GRIP is one of five sculptures placed near Landmark Trust buildings across Britain in 2015 to celebrate fifty years of the charity. Saddell Bay was chosen by Gormley:
There is an excitement about making a sculpture that can live out here amongst the waves and the wind, the rain and snow, in night and day. The sculpture is like a standing stone, a marker in space and time, linking with a specific place and its history but also looking out towards the horizon, having a conversation with a future that hasn’t yet happened.
Paul McCartney filmed the video for “Mull of Kintyre” on this beach. Now I can’t get the damn tune out of my head.
A perfect place to drop the backpack, lie on a smooth rock, close my eyes and enjoy a short nap.
Back on the road, signs of new life are everywhere — two tiny lambs jump as though on springs.
Kildonan Dun, a fortified farmstead from the first or second century, is well positioned to see Viking raiders approaching.
Davaar Island is the marker for the approach to Campbeltown. Accessible by a causeway at low tide, it hosts a cave with a crucifixion painting that I’d hoped to visit but the tide times are against me.
A man leans over his garden stone wall, keen to chat. A Lancashire accent. I’ve heard more English and overseas accents than Scottish ones — a popular place to retire.
I’m staying in a cosy Airbnb flat. A relaxing end to a beautiful day.
Walk distance: 18 miles.
Total distance: 4,115 miles.
Well you had lovely weather for this one at least. I have to plan ahead and book leave so tend to have to take the weather as it comes so I’ve had a fair few of those “why am I doing this” moments when walking through driving rain and strong winds. But of course as you say you soon realise why when the weather improves and you see the stunning scenery.
I must have missed the gormley statues (though did see then near Liverpool, at Crosby, when I walked that bit of the coast). I would also have liked to explore Davaar Island but sadly the tide was also too high. One day! (I do plan to go back and walk many of the islands, so will try and include this one).
I also stayed at an Air BnB in Campbeltown as the only hotel was horrifically expensive! (It was above the Red Cross shop in Hall Street, wonder if it’s the same one you used?).
There is only one Gormley statue. I just liked it so much that I took several photos. 🙂
I had the same reaction re: hotels. They were expensive and the reviews were not great. I had a ground floor place in Kirk Street. Not the most scenic spot but perfectly fine inside.
Wow – a sunny day in Scotland! Unbelievable. Hope the good weather continues and allows you to enjoy the scenery. Look after those feet.
I had to dig out the sun tan cream!
I chose the Kintyre Way route, which I thoroughly enjoyed (though it was a hot day and I ran out of water near the end, and you know what that’s like). Nice of you to show me what I missed by not taking the coast route!