Today marks the start of the South West Coast Path, stretching 630 miles to Minehead, climbing 114,931 ft, almost four times the height of Everest. It’s also my first time with hiking poles, so this should be fun. One of my closest friends, Duncan, foolishly decides to join me. Early morning construction work at South Haven Point puts us behind bars already.
The route begins gently as we pass through the, understandably, deserted naturist beach and climb up to the magnificent Old Harry Rocks and The Pinnacles. This is the start of the Jurassic Coast, England’s only natural World Heritage site. Unfortunately, this coincides with a short hailstorm, making it difficult to take photos. Duncan tries to take me out with a hiking pole, and I trip over my own a moment later. Perhaps we should wear “L plates” for a probationary period as a warning to other walkers.
The wind and rain drive into our faces, so it’s heads down as we walk up Studland Hill — too far down. We reach the summit only to realise the correct path branched off long ago. Back on the right path, we follow Swanage Bay and stop for breakfast at Peveril Point in front of the Coastwatch station. I see my first seal, albeit just a tiny black blob in the distance.
The next stage of the walk is wonderfully varied, with interesting sights round every corner and over every rise. It begins with a wooded cliff-top track through Durlston Country Park, home to the Great Globe, constructed from 40 tonnes of Portland stone.
The path rises and falls, winding past Anvil Point Lighthouse, limestone quarries and caves, and Dancing Ledge.
We head inland to Worth Matravers at Winspit. The quarry is closed for filming. Security guards refuse to disclose the production details. Episodes of Doctor Who were filmed here, so I’d love to know what’s planned. The duck drinking at the village pond inspires us for a pint at the very friendly Square & Compass pub.
The car park threatens a £100 fine for overnight parking so we decamp to Lulworth Cove, after a scenic golden hour drive along a ridge through the Lulworth Ranges, passing deer on the road. Duncan conjures up a bottle of red wine and nibbles — more cultured than my usual energy bar and instant coffee. He should come again.
After a couple of glasses of wine, the bravado is back, and we race up the path to the top of Hambury Tout to catch the sunset.
The light fades so we kip down for the night. I’m anxious about Duncan’s pending star rating for his luxurious Viano accommodation, not helped by staying in Bournemouth last night with his friends who provided an en suite bathroom and a cooked breakfast!
Walk distance: 15 miles.
Total distance: 373 miles.
Well done, very informative👍 I was due to start from Minehead but I have cord damage and S.S.A.F.A. were supporting me but withdrew because they thought I may damage my health more? Now as I live in Yeovil thinking of starting in Poole.
Hi Russell. There are some steep climbs but perhaps just start with a short section and see how you feel. There is so much to look at and explore.
Hello Tony. Star Wars TV show is what is being filmed at Winspit. A shame you were not able to go down there.
You can read about it here (note – very advert heavy) https://www.bournemouthecho.co.uk/news/19292655.know-far-star-wars-filming-dorset-quarry/
Thanks Jon. I am planning to walk back from St. Aldhelm’s Head this Saturday to complete the section and see what is visible from the top of the quarry.