The exposed road snakes along the coast to Rosehearty, directly into the driving wind and rain.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7782.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
Leaving the town, a rugged coastal path passes a former RAF bombing control tower, built in 1994 and designed to withstand the blast from a 2,000lb bomb, now converted into a family home and marketed as “the UK’s toughest home”. It’s probably in demand.
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There are fine views of the crashing waves before the path vanishes and I’m forced to cut along the edge of a farmer’s field, quietly past the farmhouse and onto a minor road.
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A footpath sign for Pennan at Mill Farm begins a three-mile walk along quiet country lanes.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7907.jpg?resize=815%2C630&ssl=1)
I struggle to find the footpath at Pennan Farm, meeting barbed wire and fields of cows before finding a stile hidden at the side of a farm building.
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A muddy, cattle-churned track leads down the valley to the highlight of my day — Pennan Village.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7934.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
The Coastal Cuppie sits on the harbour wall. I’m in luck, as Shona, the lovely owner, keeps it open later than normal for a group of French tourists, although supplies are depleted.
“We have scones or scones or scones.”
Scones, fresh cream and jam it is then. They are delicious. I’d not expected this.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/Coastal-cuppa-2.jpg?resize=1024%2C461&ssl=1)
One of my favourite movies is Bill Forsyth’s Local Hero, about an American tycoon who wants to buy a Scottish village to build an oil terminal before falling for its charms. It was filmed partly at Pennan.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7940.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
The iconic red phonebox from the movie remains to draw fans, although Shona tells me the movie used a replica positioned next to the lamp pictured above.
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A steep climb from the village takes me back to the road and a pretty river crossing at the Mill of Nethermill.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7959.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
A network of quiet lanes is followed by a descent through the grassy valley of Mink Howe to Crovie village.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7976.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
Fearing another tough climb to the next bay, I’m relieved to find a path hugging the cliff to Gardenstown.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7984.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
That’s the end of the fun part of the day, leaving only the long road into Macduff and Banff.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7991.jpg?resize=830%2C630&ssl=1)
An attractive bridge, built in 1780, connects the two towns.
![](https://i0.wp.com/closertotheedge.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/IMG_7998.jpg?resize=840%2C630&ssl=1)
I’m booked into an Airbnb. The host, Tracey, is wonderful. When I explain how far I’ve walked and looking forward to a long bath, she brings me a bottle of Radox. Now I’m a happy man. I may never get out of this bath.
Date of walk: Friday 28 June 2024.
Walk distance: 27 miles.
Total distance: 4,452 miles.
I just love the random links thrown up by reading blogs. Touring the Scottish Isles once led us to a B+B near Brodick on Arran named Crovie where the landlady came from.
Crovie looked like a tiny village too. I loved Arran, even if it did rain most of the week. 🙂