Banff Castle sits across the road from my accommodation, guarded by tree spirits. It reminds me of the Frank Bruce Sculpture Trail I visited on the East Highland Way.
A gentle cycle path meanders to Whitehills. Tiny birds sprint across the sea, back and forth as if playing a manic game of water polo.
I take the road inland to avoid the large Boyne Bay Quarry, arriving at the beautiful old harbour in Portsoy, where I stop for a coffee.
***** Spoiler Alert for anyone watching Peaky Blinders for the first time. *****
It’s strange how people create shrines for fictional characters. This was the waterfront location where Tommy Shelby shot Michael Grey — cue slow motion, flapping long coats, swirling smoke, shooting flames and a pounding industrial soundtrack.
A pretty clifftop path leads to Sandend, where I struggle to find the path out of the village, hidden up a private residential road.
The coastline becomes more dramatic with each passing mile.
Findlater Castle perches on a rocky promontory, in danger of collapsing into the sea.
The cliffs fall away to a beautiful sandy beach ringed by dense ferns. Two tents nestle close to the sand. What a wonderfully secluded and sheltered spot.
The ferns, swamping the path, reach over my head. Pushing through the undergrowth, I check frequently for ticks.
A sign points to Charlie’s Cave, although there’s just a rock wall, scorched by fire.
Charlie, a hermit, was a deserter from the French navy, arriving in 1920 and living off his garden and fish for 13 years. A vegetarian, he snared and sold rabbits and postcards of himself.
The path hugs the shore, with towering cliffs to my left and impressive rock formations at Logie Head, popular with climbers.
A stone staircase — the Giant’s Steps — rises over the headland ridge. Incredibly, the huge rocks were laid by one man, Tony Heatherington, without the aid of lifting gear or mechanical aids. A memorial stone lies close by.
There’s a fine view back from the top of the steps.
I spend a little while wandering round the huge pet cemetery in Cullen, inevitably thinking about Bella.
The Moray Coast Trail, running 45 miles from Cullen to Forres, is watched over by the imposing disused railway viaduct.
The Three Kings rock stacks dominate the beach, although I only see two.
This is a magnificent stretch of coastline. I clamber down to the rocks for a closer look at a sea arch.
I’m already excited and energised by the scenery when another stunning view appears — Bow Fiddle Rock.
I take off my backpack and find a sheltered spot from the cold wind to enjoy the fantastic view of both the rock and the colony of seabirds.
Back on the clifftop path, a loud tannoy announces an outdoor village party in Findochty, still two miles away. I’d like to stop and listen to the band but it’s getting late, the temperature is falling and there’s a long way to go.
Passing the pretty harbour, there’s a campsite on the far side of the village. Two women try to unzip their small tent, and one of them tumbles, giggling, head-first onto the tent. Her companion rolls her eyes and apologises. It’s going to be a long night for her.
A pirate-themed row of lifebuoys stretches across the stony shore at Strathlene Sands. What are they? Memorials? Art? Advertising?
I’m intrigued.
The Welcome to Buckie sign is several miles from the town centre, making for a long slog up the road for the bus to Elgin before the rain arrives.
I intended to finish this trip with a celebratory apple crumble at the Brewers Fayre next door to the Premier Inn, where I’m staying in luxury, but they are not serving food due to a lack of staff! That’s down to the Whitbread restructuring and the second time it’s happened with a Premier Inn. It was Alnwick last time. I’ll stick to the cheap and cheerful Travelodge in future, which at least does not raise my hopes. Mind you, there may not be many of either left on the remaining wild coastline, so I’m happy with my tent.
It’s been a great day and a fantastic trip — a stunning coastline with wildlife galore.
Date of walk: Saturday 29 June 2024.
Walk distance: 23 miles.
Total distance: 4,475 miles.
I must have missed those amazing carvings. It’s a lovely stretch of coastline and I expect your are glad to have reached Moray and it’s proper coast path. I had the same experience as you at the Premier Inn in Londonderry with the advertised Brewers Fayre closed dur to staff shortages. I was glad there was a Pizza takeaway next door.
You were lucky. I only had McDonald’s, my first one in years.
Another memorable day. Keep them coming.
I imagine your eyes lit up at the climbers. I’m heading back on Tuesday, possibly my last trip without my tent.
Yes I looked up the climbs on Logie Head. Almost a 100 of them and popular in the middle grades. Looks stunning. I never did enough climbing in Scotland.