Day 279: Inverness Airport to Munlochy

A gorgeous morning transforms even the grim B9039. It joins the busy A96, arrowing seven miles through Inverness to cross the Moray Firth at Kessock Bridge, which is not my idea of fun. A fellow coast walker, Jon Combe, found an alternative route along the coastline eight years ago, so I hope to do the same.

The sea lies on the far side of a lush new golf course at Lonnie Farm.

Although walkers have the right to cross golf courses and this one does not appear open, I still maintain a discreet distance from the farmhouse, keeping to hollows and passing behind an island of trees.

One wall to climb and I reach the rocky shore.

After picking my way over wet rocks, an easier track runs to Alturlie Point, a tiny cluster of houses. Kessock Bridge beckons.

There are less scenic views of a sludge treatment plant.

Beauty can be found in the most uninspiring places — parents escorting their precious convoy.

The OS map shows an abandoned road running parallel to the A96. Jon found it blocked at the far end but perhaps things have improved.

I love abandoned roads, especially when they are lined with beautiful oak trees. There’s a Facebook group dedicated to them, including this one — the original A96. Uncomfortable flashes of the Detectorists. Am I turning into Mackenzie Crook or Toby Jones? Worrying.

Sure enough, the path ends abruptly at a wooden fence backed by dense trees. I can hear the traffic on the other side of a steep hill. Pushing through the gorse, scrambling with some difficulty up a bank and down the other side, I drop down to a footpath that runs next to the main road for a couple of miles. It’s not the most exciting section but it passes quickly.

Crossing Kessock Bridge, I reach the Black Isle and vanish into enchanting woodland tumbling down a steep hillside.

The swish of boots through crisp fallen leaves.

I’m not alone. There is Black Isle folklore to discover as I travel north to Cromarty.

So many paths to choose from. I turn down to the shore.

I lose my way a couple of times, scrambling over rocks before resting briefly in the pretty hamlet of Kilmuir.

Cliffs block the headland, so I’m forced over the hills. Finding the correct path under the leaves is a challenge.

I pass through several estates, some less welcoming than others with fences and warning signs, but eventually I reach a forest road that winds over the summit and down into Munlochy Bay.

The younger trees are more into the festive spirit.

It’s been a long day and the temperature is falling, the moon visible in the clear sky.

Arriving at Munlochy, I miss a bus back to Inverness by seconds, which means finding a local bar to pass the time and stay warm. A lovely day — a tree-hugging day. Much nicer than expected with the road walking through Inverness. I look forward to exploring the Black Isle.

Date of walk: Thursday 14 November 2024.

Walk distance: 16 miles.

Total distance: 4,668 miles.