The Isle of Portland is shrouded in dark clouds, grim and forbidding, as I walk across the long beach connecting it to the mainland.
Tiny figures gaze atop a structure in Castletown Harbour, part of an artificial Mulberry Harbour used to support the Normandy landings. The six sculptures represent two British sailors, two dockyard workers and two American GIs.
A steep climb leads to a huge moat surrounding the 19th-century Verne Citadel, now HM Prison The Verne.
The path winds through quarries and passes a community farm, where, to my surprise, wallabies sit behind the fence.
Descending the island’s far side, the shoreline is covered with lush vegetation.
The trees give way to a rock-strewn landscape.
Rufus Castle, perched on the cliff-edge, is a gorgeous spot for a quick lunch, before climbing down into tiny Church Ope Cove, a pretty and peaceful collection of beach huts sitting on smooth grey and white stones.
A tiny sign entices me to veer off the main track to find the remains of St Andrew’s Church, tucked away in the overgrown hillside.
It’s quiet and wonderfully moody, with a skull and crossbones tomb — sadly not a pirate grave.
Returning to the cliff-top, I pass the first of several old quarry cranes.
Portland Bill Lighthouse is very busy but the numbers quickly thin out.
Strangely, the crowds are not interested in Pulpit Rock, so I sit near a couple of photographers with tripods and watch the waves gently crash against the rocks. This must be spectacular in rough seas.
The dramatic views continue as Chesil Beach reappears in the distance. I can see why Thomas Hardy, who based several novels in the area, referred to the island as “the Gibraltar of Wessex”.
The track disappears where the land has collapsed into the sea. The beach huts are living on borrowed time.
The island is bleak but fascinating. I must have a thing for desolate places, as I found Dungeness equally compelling. It’s a short drive back to Lulworth Cove for the night.
Walk distance: 14 miles.
Total distance: 385 miles.
Portland is a fascinating place and I’m glad you included it in your walk. Church Ope Cove is a lovely spot. I’d never heard it described as the Gibraltar of Wessex but it’s an apt description.
I could easily have spent more time there but it was already one of my longest days. I wanted to walk round the entire citadel / prison.
Did you actually see any wallabies? I saw signs about wild goats, but can’t remember seeing any. Church Ope Cove is a gem. One coastal walker spent some weeks of lockdown in a borrowed beach hut there. (Her posts didn’t say where she was, but if you’ve been there you would recognise the photos!) Did you see much of the sculpture park? I missed it first time round, but went back with friends a couple of years ago and had a good look round. This is a great walk isn’t it.
I did indeed. I have just posted a pic on my FB page.
I was following that person’s posts but I assumed it was Cornwall / Devon. I must go check again.
There were two “dangerous path” signs. It was getting late so I did not fancy a detour. The first one was fine but the second one was definitely not, as the path had sheared away. That took me along the main path through the sculpture park and I had a look at the closest exhibits. I liked some and others less so, but it was a little quick.
Hi Tony, I loved walking around Portland. I especially enjoyed the Tout Quarry Sculpture park above Chiswell.
Finally, back in the saddle myself tomorrow with a 2 day trip to Kent/East Sussex. Managed to get a nights accommodation in Pontins at Camber!
Hi Alan, good to hear you are back on the finishing straight. I stayed at Pontins with my sons on several rugby club tours! 🙂